They also wore besides
a square hat or cap, that seemed to be covered with velvet, such as
our clergymen in many places wear.
They were differently employed - some talking together, some playing,
and some had their books in their hands, and were reading; but I was
soon obliged to get out of their sight, they stared at me so as I
came along, all over dust, with my stick in my hand.
As I entered the inn, and desired to have something to eat, the
countenance of the waiter soon gave me to understand that I should
there find no very friendly reception. Whatever I got they seemed
to give me with such an air as showed too plainly how little they
thought of me, and as if they considered me but as a beggar. I must
do them the justice to own, however, that they suffered me to pay
like a gentleman. No doubt this was the first time this pert,
bepowdered puppy had ever been called on to wait on a poor devil who
entered their place on foot. I was tired, and asked for a bedroom
where I might sleep. They showed me into one that much resembled a
prison for malefactors. I requested that I might have a better room
at night; on which, without any apology, they told me that they had
no intention of lodging me, as they had no room for such guests, but
that I might go back to Slough, where very probably I might get a
night's lodging.
With money in my pocket, and a consciousness, moreover, that I was
doing nothing that was either imprudent, unworthy, or really mean, I
own it mortified and vexed me to find myself obliged to put up with
this impudent ill-usage from people who ought to reflect that they
are but the servants of the public, and little likely to recommend
themselves to the high by being insolent to the low. They made me,
however, pay them two shillings for my dinner and coffee, which I
had just thrown down, and was preparing to shake off the dust from
my shoes, and quit this inhospitable St. Christopher, when the green
hills of Windsor smiled so friendly upon me, that they seemed to
invite me first to visit them.
And now trudging through the streets of Windsor, I at length mounted
a sort of hill; a steep path led me on to its summit, close to the
walls of the castle, where I had an uncommonly extensive and fine
prospect, which so much raised my heart, that in a moment I forgot
not only the insults of waiters and tavern-keepers, but the hardship
of my lot in being obliged to travel in a manner that exposed me to
the scorn of a people whom I wished to respect. Below me lay the
most beautiful landscapes in the world - all the rich scenery that
nature, in her best attire, can exhibit. Here were the spots that
furnished those delightful themes of which the muse of Denham and
Pope made choice. I seemed to view a whole world at once, rich and
beautiful beyond conception. At that moment what more could I have
wished for?
And the venerable castle, that royal edifice which, in every part of
it, has strong traces of antiquity, smiles through its green trees,
like the serene countenance of some hoary sage, who, by the vigour
of a happy constitution, still retains many of the charms of youth.
Nothing inspired me with more veneration and awe than the fine old
building St. George's Church, which, as you come down from the
castle, is on your right. At the sight of it past centuries seemed
to revive in my imagination.
But I will see no more of those sights which are shown you by one of
those venal praters, who ten times a day, parrot-wise, repeat over
the same dull lesson they have got by heart. The surly fellow, who
for a shilling conducted me round the church, had nearly, with his
chattering, destroyed the finest impressions. Henry VIII., Charles
I., and Edward IV. are buried here. After all, this church, both
within and without, has a most melancholy and dismal appearance.
They were building at what is called the queen's palace, and
prodigious quantities of materials are provided for that purpose.
I now went down a gentle declivity into the delightful park at
Windsor, at the foot of which it looks so sombrous and gloomy that I
could hardly help fancying it was some vast old Gothic temple. This
forest certainly, in point of beauty, surpasses everything of the
kind you can figure to yourself. To its own charms, when I saw it,
there were added a most pleasing and philosophical solitude, the
coolness of an evening breeze, all aided by the soft sounds of
music, which, at this distance from the castle, from whence it
issued, was inexpressibly sweet. It threw me into a sort of
enthusiastic and pleasing reverie, which made me ample amends for
the fatigues, discourtesies, and continued cross accidents I had
encountered in the course of the day.
I now left the forest; the clock struck six, and the workmen were
going home from their work.
I have forgot to mention the large round tower of the castle, which
is also a very ancient building. The roads that lead to it are all
along their sides planted with shrubs; these, being modern and
lively, make a pleasing contrast to the fine old mossy walls. On
the top of this tower the flag of Great Britain is usually
displayed, which, however, as it was now late in the evening, was
taken in.
As I came down from the castle I saw the king driving up to it in a
very plain, two-wheeled, open carriage.
