For, one afternoon,
my shirt not having been lately changed, as I was walking through a
little street, I heard two women, who were standing at a door, call
after me, "Look at the gentleman there! a fine gentleman, indeed,
who cannot afford even a clean shirt!"
I dined below with the family, and a few other persons, and the
conversation in general was agreeable enough. I was obliged to tell
them many wonderful stories (for who are so illiterate or insensible
as not to be delighted with the marvellous!) concerning Germany and
the King of Prussia. They could not sufficiently admire my courage
in determining to travel on foot, although they could not help
approving of the motive. At length, however, it came out, and they
candidly owned, that I should not have been received into their
house, had I not been introduced as I was.
I was now confirmed in my suspicions, that, in England, any person
undertaking so long a journey on foot, is sure to be looked upon and
considered as either a beggar or a vagabond, or some necessitous
wretch, which is a character not much more popular than that of a
rogue; so that I could now easily account for my reception in
Windsor and at Nuneham. But, with all my partiality for this
country, it is impossible even in theory, and much less so in
practice, to approve of a system which confines all the pleasures
and benefits of travel to the rich. A poor peripatetic is hardly
allowed even the humble merit of being honest.
As I still intended to pursue my journey to Derbyshire, I was
advised (at least till I got further into the country) to take a
place in a post-coach. They told me that the further I got from
London, the more reasonable and humble I should find the people;
everything would be cheaper, and everybody more hospitable. This
determined me to go in the post-coach from Oxford to Birmingham;
where Mr. Pointer, of London, had recommended me to a Mr.
Fothergill, a merchant there; and from thence to continue my journey
on foot.
Monday I spent at Oxford, but rather unpleasantly, on account of my
headache. Mr. Maud himself came to fetch me, as he had promised he
would, but I found myself unable to go with him.
Notwithstanding this, in the afternoon, I took a little walk up a
hill, which lies to the north of Oxford; and from the top of which I
could see the whole city; which did not, however, appear to me
nearly so beautiful and magnificent as Mr. Maud had described it to
me during our last night's walk.
The colleges are mostly in the Gothic taste, and much overloaded
with ornaments, and built with grey stone; which, perhaps, while it
is new, looks pretty well, but it has now the most dingy, dirty, and
disgusting appearance that you can possibly imagine.
