I had not far to
go from my lodgings, in the Adelphi Buildings, to Westminster
Bridge, where you always
Find a great number of boats on the Thames,
which are ready on the least signal to serve those who will pay them
a shilling or sixpence, or according to the distance.
From hence I went up the Thames to Vauxhall, and as I passed along I
saw Lambeth; and the venerable old palace belonging to the
archbishops of Canterbury lying on my left.
Vauxhall is, properly speaking, the name of a little village in
which the garden, now almost exclusively bearing the same name, is
situated. You pay a shilling entrance.
On entering it, I really found, or fancied I found, some resemblance
to our Berlin Vauxhall, if, according to Virgil, I may be permitted
to compare small things with great ones. The walks at least, with
the paintings at the end, and the high trees, which, here and there
form a beautiful grove, or wood, on either side, were so similar to
those of Berlin, that often, as I walked along them, I seemed to
transport myself, in imagination, once more to Berlin, and forgot
for a moment that immense seas, and mountains, and kingdoms now lie
between us. I was the more tempted to indulge in this reverie as I
actually met with several gentlemen, inhabitants of Berlin, in
particular Mr. S - r, and some others, with whom I spent the evening
in the most agreeable manner. Here and there (particularly in one
of the charming woods which art has formed in this garden) you are
pleasingly surprised by the sudden appearance of the statues of the
most renowned English poets and philosophers, such as Milton,
Thomson, and others. But, what gave me most pleasure was the statue
of the German composer Handel, which, on entering the garden, is not
far distant from the orchestra.
This orchestra is among a number of trees situated as in a little
wood, and is an exceedingly handsome one. As you enter the garden,
you immediately hear the sound of vocal and instrumental music.
There are several female singers constantly hired here to sing in
public.
On each side of the orchestra are small boxes, with tables and
benches, in which you sup. The walks before these, as well as in
every other part of the garden, are crowded with people of all
ranks. I supped here with Mr. S - r, and the secretary of the
Prussian ambassador, besides a few other gentlemen from Berlin; but
what most astonished me was the boldness of the women of the town,
who often rushed in upon us by half dozens, and in the most
shameless manner importuned us for wine, for themselves and their
followers. Our gentlemen thought it either unwise, unkind, or
unsafe, to refuse them so small a boon altogether.
Latish in the evening we were entertained with a sight, that is
indeed singularly curious and interesting. In a particular part of
the garden a curtain was drawn up, and by means of some mechanism of
extraordinary ingenuity, the eye and the ear are so completely
deceived, that it is not easy to persuade one's self it is a
deception, and that one does not actually see and hear a natural
waterfall from a high rock. As everyone was flocking to this scene
in crowds, there arose all at once a loud cry of "Take care of your
pockets." This informed us, but too clearly, that there were some
pickpockets among the crowd, who had already made some fortunate
strokes.
The rotunda, a magnificent circular building in the garden,
particularly engaged my attention. By means of beautiful
chandeliers, and large mirrors, it was illuminated in the most
superb manner; and everywhere decorated with delightful paintings,
and statues, in the contemplation of which you may spend several
hours very agreeably, when you are tired of the crowd and the
bustle, in the walks of the garden.
Among the paintings one represents the surrender of a besieged city.
If you look at this painting with attention, for any length of time,
it affects you so much that you even shed tears. The expression of
the greatest distress, even bordering on despair, on the part of the
besieged, the fearful expectation of the uncertain issue, and what
the victor will determine concerning those unfortunate people, may
all be read so plainly, and so naturally in the countenances of the
inhabitants, who are imploring for mercy, from the hoary head to the
suckling whom his mother holds up, that you quite forget yourself,
and in the end scarcely believe it to be a painting before you.
You also here find the busts of the best English authors, placed all
round on the sides. Thus a Briton again meets with his Shakespeare,
Locke, Milton, and Dryden in the public places of his amusements;
and there also reveres their memory. Even the common people thus
become familiar with the names of those who have done honour to
their nation; and are taught to mention them with veneration. For
this rotunda is also an orchestra in which the music is performed in
rainy weather. But enough of Vauxhall!
Certain it is that the English classical authors are read more
generally, beyond all comparison, than the German; which in general
are read only by the learned; or, at most, by the middle class of
people. The English national authors are in all hands, and read by
all people, of which the innumerable editions they have gone through
are a sufficient proof.
My landlady, who is only a tailor's widow, reads her Milton; and
tells me, that her late husband first fell in love with her on this
very account: because she read Milton with such proper emphasis.
This single instance, perhaps, would prove but little; but I have
conversed with several people of the lower class, who all knew their
national authors, and who all have read many, if not all, of them.
This elevates the lower ranks, and brings them nearer to the higher.
There is hardly any argument or dispute in conversation, in the
higher ranks, about which the lower cannot also converse or give
their opinion.
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