The Peak of Derbyshire, therefore,
means that part of the country which is hilly, or where the
mountains are highest.
Towards noon I again came to an eminence, where I found but one
single solitary inn, which had a singular inscription on its sign.
It was in rhyme, and I remember only that it ended with these words,
"Refresh, and then go on." "Entertainment for man and horse." This
I have seen on several signs, but the most common, at all the lesser
ale-houses, is, "A. B. C. or D. dealer in foreign spirituous
liquors."
I dined here on cold meat and salad. This, or else eggs and salad,
was my usual supper, and my dinner too, at the inns at which I
stopped. It was but seldom that I had the good fortune to get
anything hot. The salad, for which they brought me all the
ingredients, I was always obliged to dress myself. This, I believe,
is always done in England.
The road was now tolerably pleasant, but the country seemed here to
be uniform and unvaried, even to dulness. However, it was a very
fine evening, and as I passed through a village just before sunset
several people who met me accosted me with a phrase which, at first,
I thought odd, but which I now think civil, if not polite. As if I
could possibly want information on such a point as they passed me,
they all very courteously told me, "'Twas a fine evening," or "A
pleasant night."
I have also often met people who as they passed me obligingly and
kindly asked: "How do you do?" To which unexpected question from
total strangers I have now learned to answer, "Pretty well, I thank
you; how do you do?" This manner of address must needs appear very
singular to a foreigner, who is all at once asked by a person whom
he has never seen before how he does.
After I had passed through this village I came to a green field, at
the side of which I met with an ale-house. The mistress was sitting
at the window. I asked her if I could stay the night there. She
said No!" and shut the window in my face.
This unmannerliness recalled to my recollection the many receptions
of this kind to which I have now so often been exposed, and I could
not forbear uttering aloud my indignation at the inhospitality of
the English. This harsh sentiment I soon corrected, however, as I
walked on, by recollecting, and placing in the opposite scale, the
unbounded and unequalled generosity of this nation, and also the
many acts of real and substantial kindness which I had myself
experienced in it.
I at last came to another inn, where there was written on the sign:
"The Navigation Inn," because it is the depot, or storehouse, of the
colliers of the Trent.
