As in duty bound, the remaining
dignitaries of this little town took their tone from their chief.
My visits were unreturned, and I received no invitations, though I
heard much during my stay of parties of pleasure, dinners, and
evening parties. Had I not fortunately been able to employ myself,
I should have been very badly off. Not one of the ladies had
kindness and delicacy enough to consider that I was alone here, and
that the society of educated people might be necessary for my
comfort. I was less annoyed at the want of politeness in the
gentlemen; for I am no longer young, and that accounts for every
thing. When the women were wanting in kindliness, I had no right to
expect consideration from the gentlemen.
I tried to discover the reason of this treatment, and soon found
that it lay in a national characteristic of these people - their
selfishness.
It appears I had scarcely arrived at Reikjavik before diligent
inquiries were set on foot as to whether I was RICH, and should see
much company at my house, and, in fact, whether much could be got
out of me.
To be well received here it is necessary either to be rich, or else
to travel as a naturalist. Persons of the latter class are
generally sent by the European courts to investigate the remarkable
productions of the country. They make large collections of
minerals, birds, &c.; they bring with them numerous presents,
sometimes of considerable value, which they distribute among the
dignitaries; they are, moreover, the projectors of many an
entertainment, and even of many a little ball, &c.; they buy up
every thing they can procure for their cabinets, and they always
travel in company; they have much baggage with them, and
consequently require many horses, which cannot be hired in Iceland,
but must be bought. On such occasions every one here is a dealer:
offers of horses and cabinets pour in on all sides.
The most welcome arrival of all is that of the French frigate, which
visits Iceland every year; for sometimes there are dejeuners a la
fourchette on board, sometimes little evening parties and balls.
There is at least something to be got besides the rich presents; the
"Stiftsamtmann" even receives 600 florins per annum from the French
government to defray the expense of a few return balls which he
gives to the naval officers.
With me this was not the case: I gave no parties - I brought no
presents - they had nothing to expect from me; and therefore they
left me to myself. {28}
For this reason I affirm that he only can judge of the character of
a people who comes among them without claim to their attention, and
from whom they have nothing to expect. To such a person only do
they appear in their true colours, because they do not find it worth
while to dissemble and wear a mask in his presence. In these cases
the traveller is certainly apt to make painful discoveries; but
when, on the other hand, he meets with good people, he may be
certain of their sincerity; and so I must beg my honoured readers to
bear with me, when I mention the names of all those who heartily
welcomed the undistinguished foreigner; it is the only way in which
I can express my gratitude towards them.
As I said before, I had intercourse with very few people, so that
ample time remained for solitary walks, during which I minutely
noticed every thing around me.
The little town of Reikjavik consists of a single broad street, with
houses and cottages scattered around. The number of inhabitants
does not amount to 500.
The houses of the wealthier inhabitants are of wood-work, and
contain merely a ground-floor, with the exception of a single
building of one story, to which the high school, now held at
Bassastadt, will be transferred next year. The house of the
"Stiftsamtmann" is built of stone. It was originally intended for a
prison; but as criminals are rarely to be met with in Iceland, the
building was many years ago transformed into the residence of the
royal officer. A second stone building, discernible from Reikjavik,
is situated at Langarnes, half a mile from the town. It lies near
the sea, in the midst of meadows, and is the residence of the
bishop.
The church is capable of holding only at the most from 100 to 150
persons; it is built of stone, with a wooden roof. In the chambers
of this roof the library, consisting of several thousand volumes, is
deposited. The church contains a treasure which many a larger and
costlier edifice might envy, - a baptismal font by Thorwaldsen, whose
parents were of Icelandic extraction. The great sculptor himself
was born in Denmark, and probably wished, by this present, to do
honour to the birth-place of his ancestors.
To some of the houses in Reikjavik pieces of garden are attached.
These gardens are small plots of ground where, with great trouble
and expense, salad, spinach, parsley, potatoes, and a few varieties
of edible roots, are cultivated. The beds are separated from each
other by strips of turf a foot broad, seldom boasting even a few
field-flowers.
The inhabitants of Iceland are generally of middle stature, and
strongly built, with light hair, frequently inclining to red, and
blue eyes. The men are for the most part ugly; the women are better
favoured, and among the girls I noticed some very sweet faces. To
attain the age of seventy or eighty years is here considered an
extraordinary circumstance.
