To this was added the
reflection, that the hardships of my present voyage would be of
short duration, and that five or six months might see me restored to
my family.
I left Vienna at five o'clock on the morning of the tenth of April.
As the Danube had lately caused some devastations, on which occasion
the railroad had not entirely escaped, we rode for the first four
miles, as far as Florisdorf, in an omnibus - not the most agreeable
mode of travelling. Our omnibuses are so small and narrow, that one
would suppose they were built for the exclusive accommodation of
consumptive subjects, and not for healthy, and in some cases portly
individuals, whose bulk is further increased by a goodly assemblage
of cloaks, furs, and overcoats.
At the barriers a new difficulty arose. We delivered up our pass-
warrants (passirscheine) in turn, with the exception of one young
man, who was quite astounded at the demand. He had provided nothing
but his passport and testimonials, being totally unaware that a
pass-warrant is more indispensable than all the rest. In vain did
he hasten into the bureau to expostulate with the officials, - we
were forced to continue our journey without him.
We were informed that he was a student, who, at the conclusion of
term, was about to make holiday for a few weeks at his parents'
house near Prague. Alas, poor youth! he had studied so much, and
yet knew so little. He had not even an idea of the overwhelming
importance of the document in question. For this trifling omission
he forfeited the fare to Prague, which had been paid in advance.
But to proceed with my journey.
At Florisdorf a joyful surprise awaited me. I met my brother and my
son, who had, it appears, preceded me. We entered the train to
proceed in company to Stockerau, a place between twelve and thirteen
miles off; but were obliged to alight halfway, and walk a short
distance. The Embankment had given way. Luckily the weather was
favourable, inasmuch as we had only a violent storm of wind. Had it
rained, we should have been wetted to the skin, besides being
compelled to wade ankle-deep in mud. We were next obliged to remain
in the open air, awaiting the arrival of the train from Stockerau,
which unloaded its freight, and received us in exchange.
At Stockerau I once more took leave of my companions, and was soon
securely packed in the post-carriage for transmission.
In travelling this short distance, I had thus entered four
carriages; a thing sufficiently disagreeable to an unencumbered
person, but infinitely more so to one who has luggage to watch over.
The only advantage I could discover in all this was, that we had
saved half an hour in coming these seventeen miles. For this,
instead of 9 fl. 26 kr. from Vienna to Prague, we paid 10 fl. 10 kr.
from Stockerau to Prague, without reckoning expense of omnibus and
railway. It was certainly a dearly-bought half-hour. {3}
The little town of Znaim, with its neighbouring convent, is situated
on a large plain, extending from Vienna to Budwitz, seventeen miles
beyond Znaim; the monotony of the view is only broken here and there
by low hills.
Near Schelletau the scenery begins to improve. On the left the view
is bounded by a range of high hills, with a ruined castle,
suggestive of tragical tales of centuries gone by. Fir and pine
forests skirt the road, and lie scattered in picturesque groups over
hill and dale.
April 11th.
Yesterday the weather had already begun to be ungracious to us. At
Znaim we found the valleys still partly covered with snow, and the
fog was at times so thick, that we could not see a hundred paces in
advance; but to-day it was incomparably worse. The mist resolved
itself into a mild rain, which, however, lost so much of its
mildness as we passed from station to station, that every thing
around us was soon under water. But not only did we ride through
water, we were obliged to sit in it also. The roof of our carriage
threatened to become a perfect sieve, and the rain poured steadily
in. Had there been room for such a proceeding, we should all have
unfurled our umbrellas.
On occasions like these, I always silently admire the patience of my
worthy countrymen, who take every thing so good-humouredly. Were I
a man, I should pursue a different plan, and should certainly not
fail to complain of such carelessness. But as a woman, I must hold
my peace; people would only rail at my sex, and call it ill-
humoured. Besides, I thanked my guardian-angel for these
discomforts, looking upon them as a preparation for what was to
befall me in the far North.
Passing several small towns and villages, we at length entered the
Bohemian territory, close behind Iglau. The first town which we saw
was Czaslau, with its large open square, and a few neat houses; the
latter provided with so-called arbours (or verandahs), which enable
one to pass round the square dry-footed, even in the most rainy
weather.
Journeying onwards, we noticed the fine cathedral and town of
Kuttenberg, once famous for its gold and silver mines. {4} Next
comes the great tobacco-manufactory of Sedlitz, near which we first
see the Elbe, but only for a short time, as it soon takes another
direction. Passing the small town of Collin, we are whirled close
by the battle-field where, in the year 1757, the great King
Frederick paid his score to the Austrians.
