Many An Hour Has Herr Bernhoft Sacrificed To Me, In Order
To Accompany Me In My Little Excursions.
He assisted me most
diligently in my search for flowers, insects, and shells, and was
much rejoiced when he could find me a new specimen.
His kind wife
and dear children rivalled him in willingness to oblige. I can only
say, may Heaven requite them a thousand-fold for their kindness and
friendship!
I had even an opportunity of hearing my native language spoken by
Herr Bernhoft, who was a Holsteiner by birth, and had not quite
forgotten our dear German tongue, though he had lived for many years
partly in Denmark, partly in Iceland.
So behold me now in the only town in Iceland, {27} the seat of the
so-called cultivated classes, whose customs and mode of life I will
now lay before my honoured readers.
Nothing was more disagreeable to me than a certain air of dignity
assumed by the ladies here; an air which, except when it is natural,
or has become so from long habit, is apt to degenerate into
stiffness and incivility. On meeting an acquaintance, the ladies of
Reikjavik would bend their heads with so stately and yet so careless
an air as we should scarcely assume towards the humblest stranger.
At the conclusion of a visit, the lady of the house only accompanies
the guest as far as the chamber-door. If the husband be present,
this civility is carried a little further; but when this does not
happen to be the case, a stranger who does not know exactly through
which door he can make his exit, may chance to feel not a little
embarrassed. Excepting in the house of the "Stiftsamtmann" (the
principal official on the island), one does not find a footman who
can shew the way. In Hamburgh I had already noticed the beginnings
of this dignified coldness; it increased as I journeyed further
north, and at length reached its climax in Iceland.
Good letters of recommendation often fail to render the northern
grandees polite towards strangers. As an instance of this fact, I
relate the following trait:
Among other kind letters of recommendation, I had received one
addressed to Herr von H-, the "Stiftsamtmann" of Iceland. On my
arrival at Copenhagen, I heard that Herr von H- happened to be
there. I therefore betook myself to his residence, and was shewn
into a room where I found two young ladies and three children. I
delivered my letter, and remained quietly standing for some time.
Finding at length that no one invited me to be seated, I sat down
unasked on the nearest chair, never supposing for an instant that
the lady of the house could be present, and neglect the commonest
forms of politeness which should be observed towards every stranger.
After I had waited for some time, Herr von H- graciously made his
appearance, and expressed his regret that he should have very little
time to spare for me, as he intended setting sail for Iceland with
his family in a short time, and in the interim had a number of
weighty affairs to settle at Copenhagen; in conclusion, he gave me
the friendly advice to abandon my intention of visiting Iceland, as
the fatigues of travelling in that country were very great; finding,
however, that I persevered in my intention, he promised, in case I
set sail for Reikjavik earlier than himself, to give me a letter of
recommendation.
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