It unites the firm
land with the island on which the royal castle of Drottingholm
stands. The town of Stockholm now becomes visible; we turn into the
portion of the lake on which it lies, and arrive there again at two
o'clock in the afternoon.
FROM STOCKHOLM TO TRAVEMUNDE AND HAMBURGH
I bade farewell to Stockholm on the 18th September, and embarked in
the steamer Svithiold, of 100-horse power, at twelve o'clock at
noon, to go to Travemunde.
Few passages can be more expensive than this one is. The distance
is five hundred leagues, and the journey generally occupies two and
a half to three days; for this the fare, without food, is four
pounds. The food is also exorbitantly dear; in addition to which
the captain is the purveyor; so that there is no appeal for the
grossest extortion or insufficiency.
It pained me much when one of the poorer travellers, who suffered
greatly from sea-sickness, having applied for some soup to the
steward, who referred him to the amiable captain, to hear him
declare he would make no exception, and that a basin of soup would
be charged the whole price of a complete dinner. The poor man was
to do without the soup, of which he stood so much in need, or scrape
every farthing together to pay a few shillings daily for his dinner.
Fortunately for him some benevolent persons on deck paid for his
meals. Some of the gentlemen brought their own wine with them, for
which they had to pay as much duty to the captain as the wine was
worth.
To these pleasures of travelling must be added the fact, that a
Swedish vessel does not advance at all if the weather is
unfavourable. Most of the passengers considered that the engines
were inefficient. However this may be, we were delayed twenty-four
hours at the first half of our journey, from Stockholm to Calmar,
although we had only a slight breeze against us and a rather high
sea, but no storm. In Calmar we cast anchor, and waited for more
favourable wind. Several gentlemen, whose business in Lubeck was
pressing, left the steamer, and continued their journey by land.
At first the Baltic very much resembles the Malarsee; for islands,
rocks, and a variety of scenery make it interesting. To the right
we saw the immensely long wooden bridge of Lindenborg, which unites
one of the larger islands with the continent.
At the end of one of the turns of the sea lies the town of
Wachsholm; and opposite to it, upon a little rocky island, a
splendid fortress with a colossal round tower. Judging by the
number of cannons planted along the walls, this fortress must be of
great importance. A few hours later we passed a similar fortress,
Friedrichsborg; it is not in such an open situation as the other,
but is more surrounded by forests. We passed at a considerable
distance, and could not see much of it, nor of the castle lying on
the opposite side, which seems to be very magnificent, and is also
surrounded by woods.
The boundaries of the right shore now disappear, but then again
appear as a terrible heap of naked rocks, at whose extreme edge is
situated the fine fortress Dolero. Near it groups of houses are
built on the bare rocks projecting into the sea, and form an
extensive town.
September 19th.
To-day we were on the open, somewhat stormy sea. Towards noon we
arrived at the Calmar Sound, formed by the flat, uniform shores of
the long island Oland on the left, and on the right by Schmoland.
In front rose the mountain-island the Jungfrau, to which every Swede
points with self-satisfied pride. Its height is only remarkable
compared with the flatness around; beside the proud giant-mountain
of the same name in Switzerland it would seem like a little hill.
September 20th.
On account of the contrary wind, we had cast anchor here last night,
and this morning continued the journey to Calmar, where we arrived
about two in the forenoon. The town is situated on an immense
plain, and is not very interesting. A few hours may be agreeably
spent here in visiting the beautiful church and the antiquated
castle, and we had more than enough leisure for it. Wind and
weather seemed to have conspired against us, and the captain
announced an indefinite stay at this place. At first we could not
land, as the waves were too high; but at last one of the larger
boats came alongside, and the more curious among us ventured to row
to the land in the unsteady vessel.
The exterior of the church resembles a fine antiquated castle from
its four corner towers and the lowness of its dome, which rises very
little above the building, and also because the other turrets here
and there erected for ornament are scarcely perceptible. The
interior of the church is remarkable for its size, its height, and a
particularly fine echo. The tones of the organ are said to produce
a most striking effect. We sent for the organist, but he was
nowhere to be found; so we had to content ourselves with the echo of
our own voices. We went from this place to the old royal castle
built by Queen Margaret in the sixteenth century. The castle is so
dilapidated inside that a tarrying in the upper chambers is scarcely
advisable. The lower rooms of the castle have been repaired, and
are used as prisons; and as we passed, arms were stretched forth
from some of the barred windows, and plaintive voices entreated the
passers-by to bestow some trifle upon the poor inmates. Upwards of
140 prisoners are said to be confined here.
