June 21st.
At length the morning so long sighed for came; the rain had indeed
ceased; but the clouds still hung about the mountains, and promised
a speedy fall; I nevertheless resolved rather to submit myself to
the fury of the elements than to remain longer in my present
quarters, and so ordered the horses to be saddled.
Before my departure roast lamb and butter were offered me. I
thanked my entertainers; but refrained from tasting any thing,
excusing myself on the plea of not feeling hungry, which was in
reality the case; for if I only looked at the dirty people who
surrounded me, my appetite vanished instantly. So long as my stock
of bread and cheese lasted, I kept to it, and ate nothing else.
Taking leave of my good hosts, we continued our journey to
Reikjavik, by the same road on which I had travelled on my journey
hither. This had not been my original plan on starting from
Reikjavik; I had intended to proceed from Thingvalla directly to the
Geyser, to Hecla, &c.; but the horses were already exhausted, and
the weather so dreadfully bad, without prospect of speedy amendment,
that I preferred returning to Reikjavik, and waiting for better
times in my pleasant little room at the house of the good baker.
We rode on as well as we could amidst ceaseless storms of wind and
rain. The most disagreeable circumstance of all was our being
obliged to spend the hours devoted to rest in the open air, under a
by no means cloudless sky, as during our whole day's journey we saw
not a single hut, save the solitary one in the lava desert, which
serves as a resting-place for travellers during the winter. So we
continued our journey until we reached a scanty meadow. Here I had
my choice either to walk about for two hours, or to sit down upon
the wet grass. I could find nothing better to do than to turn my
back upon the wind and rain, to remain standing on one spot, to have
patience, and for amusement to observe the direction in which the
clouds scudded by. At the same time I discussed my frugal meal,
more for want of something to do than from hunger; if I felt
thirsty, I had only to turn round and open my mouth.
If there are natures peculiarly fitted for travelling, I am
fortunate in being blessed with such an one. No rain or wind was
powerful enough to give me even a cold. During this whole excursion
I had tasted no warm or nourishing food; I had slept every night
upon a bench or a chest; had ridden nearly 255 miles in six days;
and had besides scrambled about bravely in the cavern of Surthellir;
and, in spite of all this privation and fatigue, I arrived at
Reikjavik in good health and spirits.
