Its chief
street, the Konigsstrasse, is long, but narrow and dirty. Indeed it
forms a great contrast to the town of Berlin in every thing; the
streets are narrow, short, and winding. The post-office and the
theatres are the most remarkable buildings.
The luxury displayed in the shop-windows is very great. Many a
mirror and many a plate-glass window reminded me of Hamburgh's
splendour, which surpasses that of Berlin considerably.
There are not many excursions round Berlin, as the country is flat
and sandy. The most interesting are to the pleasure-gardens,
Charlottenburg, and, since the opening of the railway, to Potsdam.
The park or pleasure-garden is outside the Brandenburg-gate; it is
divided into several parts, one of which reminded me of our fine
Prater in Vienna. The beautiful alleys were filled with carriages,
riders, and pedestrians; pretty coffee-houses enlivened the woody
portions, and merry children gambolled on the green lawns. I felt
so much reminded of my beloved Prater, that I expected every moment
to see a well-known face, or receive a friendly greeting. Kroll's
Casino, sometimes called the Winter-garden, is built on this side of
the park. I do not know how to describe this building; it is quite
a fairy palace. All the splendour which fancy can invent in
furniture, gilding, painting, or tapestry, is here united in the
splendid halls, saloons, temples, galleries, and boxes. The dining-
room, which will dine 1800 persons, is not lighted by windows, but
by a glass roof vaulted over it. Rows of pillars support the
galleries, or separate the larger and smaller saloons. In the
niches, and in the corners, round the pillars, abound fragrant
flowers, and plants in chaste vases or pots, which transform this
place into a magical garden in winter. Concerts and reunions take
place here every Sunday, and the press of visitors is extraordinary,
although smoking is prohibited. This place will accommodate 5000
persons.
That side of the park which lies in the direction of the Potsdam-
gate resembles an ornamental garden, with its well-kept alleys,
flower-beds, terraces, islets, and gold-fish ponds. A handsome
monument to the memory of Queen Louise is erected on the Louise
island here.
On this side, the coffee-house Odeon is the best, but cannot be
compared to Kroll's casino. Here also are rows of very elegant
country-houses, most of which are built in the Italian style.
CHARLOTTENBURG *** DP PROOFED AND CORRECTED TO HERE ***
This place is about half an hour's distance from the Brandenburg-
gate, where the omnibuses that depart every minute are stationed.
The road leads through the park, beyond which lies a pretty village,
and adjoining it is the royal country-palace of Charlottenburg. The
palace is built in two stories, of which the upper one is very low,
and is probably only used for the domestics. The palace is more
broad than deep; the roof is terrace-shaped, and in its centre rises
a pretty dome. The garden is simple, and not very large, but
contains a considerable orangery. In a dark grove stands a little
building, the mausoleum in which the image of Queen Louise has been
excellently executed by the famed artist Rauch. Here also rest the
ashes of the late king. There is also an island with statues in the
midst of a large pond, on which some swans float proudly. It is a
pity that dirt does not stick to these white-feathered animals, else
they would soon be black swans; for the pond or river surrounding
the island is one of the dirtiest ditches I have ever seen.
Fatigue would be very intolerable in this park, for there are very
few benches, but an immense quantity of gnats.
POTSDAM.
The distance from Berlin to Potsdam is eighteen miles, which is
passed by the railroad in three-quarters of an hour. The railway is
very conveniently arranged; the carriages are marked with the names
of the station, and the traveller enters the carriage on which the
place of his destination is marked. Thus, the passengers are never
annoyed by the entrance or exit of passengers, as all occupying the
same carriage descend at the same time.
The road is very uninteresting; but this is compensated for by
Potsdam itself, for which a day is scarcely sufficient.
Immediately in front of the town flows the river Havel, crossed by a
long, beautiful bridge, whose pillars are of stone, and the rest of
the bridge of iron. The large royal palace lies on the opposite
shore, and is surrounded by a garden. The garden is not very
extensive, but large enough for the town, and is open to the public.
The palace is built in a splendid style, but is unfortunately quite
useless, as the court has beautiful summer-palaces in the
neighbourhood of Potsdam, and spends the winter in Berlin.
The castle square is not very good; it is neither large nor regular,
and not even level. On it stands the large church, which is not yet
completed, but promises to be a fine structure. The town is
tolerably large, and has many fine houses. The streets, especially
the Nauner Street, are wide and long, but badly paved; the stones
are laid with the pointed side upwards, and for foot-passengers
there is a stone pavement two feet broad on one side of the street
only. The promenade of the townspeople is called Am Kanal (beside
the canal), and is a fine square, through which the canal flows, and
is ornamented with trees.
Of the royal pleasure-palaces I visited that of Sans Souci first.
It is surrounded by a pretty park, and lies on a hill, which is
divided into six terraces.
