To the different
springs, and back again 19
Fourth day, from Reikholt to Surthellir, and
back to Kalmannstunga 40
Fifth day, from Kalmannstunga to Thingvalla 51
Sixth day, from Thingvalla to Reikjavik 46
Total 253
CHAPTER VI
The weather soon cleared up, and I continued my journey to the
Geyser and to Mount Hecla on the 24th June. On the first day, when
we rode to Thingvalla, we passed no new scenery, but saw instead an
extremely beautiful atmospheric phenomenon.
As we approached the lake, some thin mist-clouds lowered over it and
over the earth, so that it seemed as if it would rain. One portion
of the firmament glowed with the brightest blue; while the other
part was obscured by thick clouds, through which the sun was just
breaking. Some of its rays reached the clouds of mist, and
illuminated them in a wonderfully beautiful manner. The most
delicate shades of colour seemed breathed, as it were, over them
like a dissolving rainbow, whose glowing colours were intermingled
and yet singly perceptible. This play of colours continued for half
an hour, then faded gradually till it vanished entirely, and the
ordinary atmosphere took its place. It was one of the most
beautiful appearances I had ever witnessed.
June 25th.
The roads separate about a mile behind the little town of
Thingvalla; the one to the left goes to Reikholt, the right-hand one
leads to the Geyser. We rode for some time along the shores of the
lake, and found at the end of the valley an awful chasm in the rock,
similar to the one of Almanagiau, which we had passed on such a
wretched road.
The contiguous valley bore a great resemblance to that of
Thingvalla; but the third one was again fearful. Lava covered it,
and was quite overgrown with that whitish moss, which has a
beautiful appearance when it only covers a portion of the lava, and
when black masses rise above it, but which here presented a most
monotonous aspect.
We also passed two grottoes which opened at our feet. At the
entrance of one stood a pillar of rock supporting an immense slab of
lava, which formed an awe-inspiring portal. I had unfortunately not
known of the existence of these caves, and was consequently
unprepared to visit them. Torches, at least, would have been
requisite. But I subsequently heard that they were not at all deep,
and contained nothing of interest.
In the course of the day we passed through valleys such as I had
seen nowhere else in Iceland. Beautiful meadow-lawns, perfectly
level, covered the country for miles. These rich valleys were, of
course, tolerably well populated; we frequently passed three or four
contiguous cottages, and saw horses, cows, and sheep grazing on
these fields in considerable numbers.
The mountains which bounded these valleys on the left seemed to me
very remarkable; they were partly brown, black, or dark blue, like
the others; but the bulk of which they were composed I considered to
be fine loam-soil layers, if I may trust my imperfect mineralogical
knowledge.
