We
unfortunately hurried past it, as we wished to reach Prague before
six o'clock, so that we might not miss the train to Vienna.
My readers may imagine our disappointment on arriving at the gates
of Prague, when our passports were taken from us and not returned.
In vain we referred to the vise of the boundary-town Peterswalde; in
vain we spoke of our haste. The answer always was, "That is nothing
to us; you can have your papers back to-morrow at the police-
office." Thus we were put off, and lost twenty-four hours.
I must mention a little joke I had on the ride from Dresden to
Prague. Two gentlemen and a lady beside myself occupied the mail-
coach; the lady happened to have read my diary of Palestine, and
asked me, when she heard my name, if I were that traveller. When I
had acknowledged I was that same person, our conversation turned on
that and on my present journey. One of the gentlemen, Herr Katze,
was very intelligent, and conversed in a most interesting manner on
countries, nationalities, and scientific subjects. The other
gentleman was probably equally well informed, but he made less use
of his acquirements. Herr Katze remained in Teplitz, and the other
gentleman proceeded with us to Vienna. Before arriving at our
destination, he asked me if Herr Katze had not requested me to
mention his name in my next book, and added, that if I would promise
to do the same, he would tell me his name. I could not refrain from
smiling, but assured him that Herr Katze had not thought of such a
thing, and begged him not to communicate his name to me, so that he
might see that we females were not so curious as we are said to be.
But the poor man could not refrain from giving me his name - Nicholas
B. - before we parted. I do not insert it for two reasons: first,
because I did not promise to name him; and secondly, because I do
not think it would do him any service.
The railway from Prague to Vienna goes over Olmutz, and makes such a
considerable round, that the distance is now nearly 320 miles, and
the arrangements on the railway are very imperfect.
There were no hotels erected on the road, and we had to be content
with fruit, beer, bread, and butter, &c. the whole time. And these
provisions were not easily obtained, as we could not venture to
leave the carriages. The conductor called out at every station that
we should go on directly, although the train frequently stood
upwards of half an hour; but as we did not know that before, we were
obliged to remain on our seats. The conductors were not of the most
amiable character, which may perhaps be ascribed to the climate; for
when we approached the boundary of the Austrian states at
Peterswalde, the inspector received us very gruffly. We wished him
good evening twice, but he took no notice of it, and demanded our
papers in a loud and peremptory tone; he probably thought us as deaf
as we thought him. At Ganserndorf, twenty-five miles from Vienna,
they took our papers from us in a very uncivil, uncourteous manner.
On the 4th of October, 1845, after an absence of six months, I
arrived again in sight of the dear Stephen's steeple, as most of my
countrywomen would say.
I had suffered many hardships; but my love of travelling would not
have been abated, nor would my courage have failed me, had they been
ten times greater. I had been amply compensated for all. I had
seen things which never occur in our common life, and had met with
people as they are rarely met with - in their natural state. And I
brought back with me the recollections of my travels, which will
always remain, and which will afford me renewed pleasure for years.
And now I take leave of my dear readers, requesting them to accept
with indulgence my descriptions, which are always true, though they
may not be amusing. If I have, as I can scarcely hope, afforded
them some amusement, I trust they will in return grant me a small
corner in their memories.
In conclusion, I beg to add an Appendix, which may not be
uninteresting to many of my readers, namely:
1. A document which I procured in Reikjavik, giving the salaries of
the royal Danish officials, and the sources from whence they are
paid.
2. A list of Icelandic insects, butterflies, flowers, and plants,
which I collected and brought home with me.
APPENDIX A
Salaries of the Royal Danish Officials in Iceland, which they
receive from the Icelandic land-revenues.
Florins {58}
The Governor of Iceland 2000
Office expenses 600
The deputy for the western district 1586
Office expenses 400
Rent 200
The deputy for the northern and eastern districts 1286
Office expenses 400
The bishop of Iceland, who draws his salary from
the school-revenues, has paid him from this
treasury 800
The members of the Supreme Court:
One judge 1184
First assessor 890
Second assessor 740
The land-bailiff of Iceland 600
Office expenses 200
Rent 150
The town-bailiff of Reikjavik 300
The first police-officer of Reikjavik, who is
at the same time gaoler, and therefore
has 50 fl. more than the second officer 200
The second police-officer 150
The mayor of Reikjavik only draws from this
treasury his house-rent, which is 15O
The sysselman of the Westmanns Islands 296
The other sysselmen, each 230
Medical department and midwifery:
The physician 900
House-rent 150
Apothecary of Reikjavik 185
House-rent 150
The second apothecary at Sikkisholm 90
Six surgeons in the country, each 300
House-rent for some 30
For others 25
A medical practitioner on the Northland 110
Reikjavik has two midwives, each receives 50
The other midwives in Iceland, amounting
to thirty, each receives 100
These midwives are instructed and
examined by the land physician, who
has the charge of paying them annually.
