This Folly Of
The English, Together With A Concourse Of People From Different
Quarters, Who Come Hither For The Re-Establishment Of Their
Health, Has Rendered Montpellier One Of The Dearest Places In The
South Of France.
The city, which is but small, stands upon a
rising ground fronting the Mediterranean, which is about three
leagues to the southward:
On the other side is an agreeable
plain, extending about the same distance towards the mountains of
the Cevennes. The town is reckoned well built, and what the
French call bien percee; yet the streets are in general narrow,
and the houses dark. The air is counted salutary in catarrhous
consumptions, from its dryness and elasticity: but too sharp in
cases of pulmonary imposthumes.
It was at Montpellier that we saw for the first time any signs of
that gaiety and mirth for which the people of this country are
celebrated. In all other places through which we passed since our
departure from Lyons, we saw nothing but marks of poverty and
chagrin. We entered Montpellier on a Sunday, when the people were
all dressed in their best apparel. The streets were crowded; and
a great number of the better sort of both sexes sat upon stone
seats at their doors, conversing with great mirth and
familiarity. These conversations lasted the greatest part of the
night; and many of them were improved with musick both vocal and
instrumental: next day we were visited by the English residing in
the place, who always pay this mark of respect to new comers.
They consist of four or five families, among whom I could pass
the winter very agreeably, if the state of my health and other
reasons did not call me away.
Mr. L - had arrived two days before me, troubled with the same
asthmatic disorder, under which I have laboured so long. He told
me he had been in quest of me ever since he left England. Upon
comparing notes, I found he had stopped at the door of a country
inn in Picardy, and drank a glass of wine and water, while I was
at dinner up stairs; nay, he had even spoke to my servant, and
asked who was his master, and the man, not knowing him, replied,
he was a gentleman from Chelsea. He had walked by the door of the
house where I lodged at Paris, twenty times, while I was in that
city; and the very day before he arrived at Montpellier, he had
passed our coach on the road.
The garrison of this city consists of two battalions, one of
which is the Irish regiment of Berwick, commanded by lieutenant
colonel Tents, a gentleman with whom we contracted an
acquaintance at Boulogne. He treats us with great politeness, and
indeed does every thing in his power to make the place agreeable
to us. The duke of Fitz-James, the governor, is expected here in
a little time. We have already a tolerable concert twice a week;
there will be a comedy in the winter; and the states of Provence
assemble in January, so that Montpellier will be extremely gay
and brilliant.
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