While Mr. R - Went To Mass, I
Desired The Cameriere To Bid His Master Bring The Bill, And To
Tell Him That If It Was Not Reasonable, I Would Carry Him Before
The Commandant.
In the mean time I armed myself with my sword in
one hand and my cane in the other.
The inn-keeper immediately
entered, pale and staring, and when I demanded his bill, he told
me, with a profound reverence that he should be satisfied with
whatever I myself thought proper to give. Surprised at this
moderation, I asked if he should be content with twelve livres,
and he answered, "Contentissimo," with another prostration. Then
he made an apology for the bad accommodation of his house, and
complained, that the reproaches of the other gentleman, whom he
was pleased to call my majorduomo, had almost turned his brain.
When he quitted the room, his cameriere, laying hold of his
master's last words, pointed to his own forehead, and said, he
had informed the gentleman over night that his patron was mad.
This day we were by a high wind in the afternoon, driven for
shelter into Porto Mauritio, where we found the post-house even
worse than that of Finale; and what rendered it more shocking was
a girl quite covered with the confluent smallpox, who lay in a
room through which it was necessary to pass to the other
chambers, and who smelled so strong as to perfume the whole
house. We were but fifteen miles from St. Remo, where I knew the
auberge was tolerable, and thither I resolved to travel by land.
I accordingly ordered five mules to travel post, and a very
ridiculous cavalcade we formed, the women being obliged to use
common saddles; for in this country even the ladies sit astride.
The road lay along one continued precipice, and was so difficult,
that the beasts never could exceed a walking pace. In some places
we were obliged to alight. Seven hours were spent in travelling
fifteen short miles: at length we arrived at our old lodgings in
St. Remo, which we found white-washed, and in great order. We
supped pretty comfortably; slept well; and had no reason to
complain of imposition in paying the bill. This was not the case
in the article of the mules, for which I was obliged to pay fifty
livres, according to the regulation of the posts. The postmaster,
who came along with us, had the effrontery to tell me, that if I
had hired the mules to carry me and my company to St. Remo, in
the way of common travelling, they would have cost me but fifteen
livres; but as I demanded post-horses, I must submit to the
regulations. This is a distinction the more absurd, as the road
is of such a nature as renders it impossible to travel faster in
one way than in another; nor indeed is there the least difference
either in the carriage or convenience, between travelling post
and journey riding. A publican might with the same reason charge
me three livres a pound for whiting, and if questioned about the
imposition, reply, that if I had asked for fish I should have had
the same whiting for the fifth part of the money: but that he
made a wide difference between selling it as fish, and selling it
as whiting. Our felucca came round from Porto Mauritio in the
night, and embarking next morning, we arrived at Nice about four
in the afternoon.
Thus have I given you a circumstantial detail of my Italian
expedition, during which I was exposed to a great number of
hardships, which I thought my weakened constitution could not
have bore; as well as to violent fits of passion, chequered,
however, with transports of a more agreeable nature; insomuch
that I may say I was for two months continually agitated either
in mind or body, and very often in both at the same time. As my
disorder at first arose from a sedentary life, producing a
relaxation of the fibres, which naturally brought on a
listlessness, indolence, and dejection of the spirits, I am
convinced that this hard exercise of mind and body, co-operated
with the change of air and objects, to brace up the relaxed
constitution, and promote a more vigorous circulation of the
juices, which had long languished even almost to stagnation. For
some years, I had been as subject to colds as a delicate woman
new delivered. If I ventured to go abroad when there was the
least moisture either in the air, or upon the ground, I was sure
to be laid up a fortnight with a cough and asthma. But, in this
journey, I suffered cold and rain, and stood, and walked in the
wet, heated myself with exercise, and sweated violently,
without feeling the least disorder; but, on the contrary, felt
myself growing stronger every day in the midst of these excesses.
Since my return to Nice, it has rained the best part of two
months, to the astonishment of all the people in the country; yet
during all that time I have enjoyed good health and spirits. On
Christmas-Eve, I went to the cathedral at midnight, to hear high
mass celebrated by the new bishop of Nice, in pontificalibus, and
stood near two hours uncovered in a cold gallery, without having
any cause in the sequel to repent of my curiosity. In a word, I
am now so well that I no longer despair of seeing you and the
rest of my friends in England; a pleasure which is eagerly
desired by, - Dear Sir, Your affectionate humble Servant.
LETTER XXXVI
NICE, March 23, 1766.
DEAR SIR, - You ask whether I think the French people are more
taxed than the English; but I apprehend, the question would be
more apropos if you asked whether the French taxes are more
insupportable than the English; for, in comparing burthens, we
ought always to consider the strength of the shoulders that bear
them.
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