Strangers
That Come To Rome Seldom Put Up At Public Inns, But Go Directly
To Lodging Houses, Of Which There Is Great Plenty In This
Quarter.
The Piazza d'Espagna is open, airy, and pleasantly
situated in a high part of the city immediately under the Colla
Pinciana, and adorned with two fine fountains.
Here most of the
English reside: the apartments are generally commodious and well
furnished; and the lodgers are well supplied with provisions and
all necessaries of life. But, if I studied oeconomy, I would
choose another part of the town than the Piazza d'Espagna, which
is, besides, at a great distance from the antiquities. For a
decent first floor and two bed-chambers on the second, I payed no
more than a scudo (five shillings) per day. Our table was
plentifully furnished by the landlord for two and thirty pauls,
being equal to sixteen shillings. I hired a town-coach at the
rate of fourteen pauls, or seven shillings a day; and a servitore
di piazza for three pauls, or eighteen-pence. The coachman has
also an allowance of two pauls a day. The provisions at Rome are
reasonable and good, the vitella mongana, however, which is the
most delicate veal I ever tasted, is very dear, being sold for
two pauls, or a shilling, the pound. Here are the rich wines of
Montepulciano, Montefiascone, and Monte di Dragone; but what we
commonly drink at meals is that of Orvieto, a small white wine,
of an agreeable flavour. Strangers are generally advised to
employ an antiquarian to instruct them in all the curiosities of
Rome; and this is a necessary expence, when a person wants to
become a connoisseur in painting, statuary, and architecture. For
my own part I had no such ambition. I longed to view the remains
of antiquity by which this metropolis is distinguished; and to
contemplate the originals of many pictures and statues, which I
had admired in prints and descriptions. I therefore chose a
servant, who was recommended to me as a sober, intelligent
fellow, acquainted with these matters: at the same time I
furnished myself with maps and plans of antient and modern Rome,
together with the little manual, called, Itinerario istruttivo
per ritrovare con facilita tutte le magnificenze di Roma e di
alcune citta', e castelli suburbani. But I found still more
satisfaction in perusing the book in three volumes, intitled,
Roma antica, e moderna, which contains a description of
everything remarkable in and about the city, illustrated with a
great number of copper-plates, and many curious historical
annotations. This directory cost me a zequine; but a hundred
zequines will not purchase all the books and prints which have
been published at Rome on these subjects. Of these the most
celebrated are the plates of Piranesi, who is not only an
ingenious architect and engraver, but also a learned antiquarian;
though he is apt to run riot in his conjectures; and with regard
to the arts of antient Rome, has broached some doctrines, which
he will find it very difficult to maintain.
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