Adieu, For The Present,
I Must Take Advantage Of A Moment Of Fine Weather To Walk Out And
See The Town.
At Christiania I met with that polite reception, which rather
characterises the progress of manners in the world, than of any
particular portion of it.
The first evening of my arrival I supped
with some of the most fashionable people of the place, and almost
imagined myself in a circle of English ladies, so much did they
resemble them in manners, dress, and even in beauty; for the fairest
of my countrywomen would not have been sorry to rank with the Grand
Bailiff's lady. There were several pretty girls present, but she
outshone them all, and, what interested me still more, I could not
avoid observing that in acquiring the easy politeness which
distinguishes people of quality, she had preserved her Norwegian
simplicity. There was, in fact, a graceful timidity in her address,
inexpressibly charming. This surprised me a little, because her
husband was quite a Frenchman of the ancien regime, or rather a
courtier, the same kind of animal in every country.
Here I saw the cloven foot of despotism. I boasted to you that they
had no viceroy in Norway, but these Grand Bailiffs, particularly the
superior one, who resides at Christiania, are political monsters of
the same species. Needy sycophants are provided for by their
relations and connections at Copenhagen as at other courts. And
though the Norwegians are not in the abject state of the Irish, yet
this second-hand government is still felt by their being deprived of
several natural advantages to benefit the domineering state.
The Grand Bailiffs are mostly noblemen from Copenhagen, who act as
men of common minds will always act in such situations - aping a
degree of courtly parade which clashes with the independent
character of a magistrate. Besides, they have a degree of power
over the country judges, which some of them, who exercise a
jurisdiction truly patriarchal most painfully feel. I can scarcely
say why, my friend, but in this city thoughtfulness seemed to be
sliding into melancholy or rather dulness. The fire of fancy, which
had been kept alive in the country, was almost extinguished by
reflections on the ills that harass such a large portion of mankind.
I felt like a bird fluttering on the ground unable to mount, yet
unwilling to crawl tranquilly like a reptile, whilst still conscious
it had wings.
1 walked out, for the open air is always my remedy when an aching
head proceeds from an oppressed heart. Chance directed my steps
towards the fortress, and the sight of the slaves, working with
chains on their legs, only served to embitter me still more against
the regulations of society, which treated knaves in such a different
manner, especially as there was a degree of energy in some of their
countenances which unavoidably excited my attention, and almost
created respect.
I wished to have seen, through an iron grate, the face of a man who
has been confined six years for having induced the farmers to revolt
against some impositions of the Government. I could not obtain a
clear account of the affair, yet, as the complaint was against some
farmers of taxes, I am inclined to believe that it was not totally
without foundation. He must have possessed some eloquence, or have
had truth on his side; for the farmers rose by hundreds to support
him, and were very much exasperated at his imprisonment, which will
probably last for life, though he has sent several very spirited
remonstrances to the upper court, which makes the judges so averse
to giving a sentence which may be cavilled at, that they take
advantage of the glorious uncertainty of the law, to protract a
decision which is only to be regulated by reasons of state.
The greater number of the slaves I saw here were not confined for
life. Their labour is not hard; and they work in the open air,
which prevents their constitutions from suffering by imprisonment.
Still, as they are allowed to associate together, and boast of their
dexterity, not only to each other but to the soldiers around them,
in the garrison; they commonly, it is natural to conclude, go out
more confirmed and more expert knaves than when they entered.
It is not necessary to trace the origin of the association of ideas
which led me to think that the stars and gold keys, which surrounded
me the evening before, disgraced the wearers as much as the fetters
I was viewing - perhaps more. I even began to investigate the
reason, which led me to suspect that the former produced the latter.
The Norwegians are extravagantly fond of courtly distinction, and of
titles, though they have no immunities annexed to them, and are
easily purchased. The proprietors of mines have many privileges:
they are almost exempt from taxes, and the peasantry born on their
estates, as well as those on the counts', are not born soldiers or
sailors.
One distinction, or rather trophy of nobility, which I might have
occurred to the Hottentots, amused me; it was a bunch of hog's
bristles placed on the horses' heads, surmounting that part of the
harness to which a round piece of brass often dangles, fatiguing the
eye with its idle motion.
From the fortress I returned to my lodging, and quickly was taken
out of town to be shown a pretty villa, and English garden. To a
Norwegian both might have been objects of curiosity; and of use, by
exciting to the comparison which leads to improvement. But whilst I
gazed, I was employed in restoring the place to nature, or taste, by
giving it the character of the surrounding scene. Serpentine walks,
and flowering-shrubs, looked trifling in a grand recess of the
rooks, shaded by towering pines. Groves of smaller trees might have
been sheltered under them, which would have melted into the
landscape, displaying only the art which ought to point out the
vicinity of a human abode, furnished with some elegance.
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