None Of The Lower Classes Think Of
Coming Here, Tho' It Is Open To Every Body Decently Dressed:
There is not
that profuse eating and drinking going forward.
It is more properly
speaking a promenade, and forms a garden with alleys of trees where music
is often performed and there is a superb saloon where refreshments may be
had. The Au-garten is frequented chiefly by the Noblesse and Haute
Bourgeoisie. In the morning likewise it is a fashionable resort to drink
the mineral waters. It adjoins the Prater, being on the same island. It
was the favourite lounge of Joseph II, who opened it to the public by
affixing this inscription on one of the gates:
Allen Menschen gewidmete Erlustigung von ihrem Schaetzer
"Place of recreation open to all Men by their esteemer."
VIENNA, Aug. 13th.
There are a great number of theatres at Vienna. Two are situated in the old
town, viz., the Hof-theater and the Burg-theater. The Hof-theater is
only open when the Court are at Vienna, and they are now at Baden, ten
leagues distant. The Burg-theater is open all the year round, and may be
considered as the national theatre. It is much frequented by the
bourgeoisie and inhabitants of the old town, who do not chuse to take the
trouble to go to the Wieden-theater, which is situated in the faubourgs,
and which is more of a classical and fashionable theatre than the other,
inasmuch as it is more elegantly and classically built, better fitted up,
and has a far better company of comedians. At the Burgtheater I saw
Kotzebue's Edelsinn und Armuth performed. The Wieden theatre which is, as
I have said, in the faubourgs, is the handsomest theatre perhaps in Europe
for its size. It is not large, but it is fitted up with so much taste and
you see and hear so well; every ornament is so chaste and there is nothing
at all tawdry or superfluous. It is, I really think, a model of what every
theatre ought to be. There is a good deal of bronze about it which gives it
a classical appearance, and the boxes are supported by Caryatides in
bronze. There is a peculiarity in all the theatres at Vienna, which is,
that in the parterre you must sit in the place the number of which is
marked on your ticket. These places are called Gesperrte Sitze, and each
seat resembles an armchair. When not occupied, the seat is folded up and
locked to the back of the chair, until the person who holds the ticket
corresponding to its number comes to take it; so that no other but the
person holding the ticket corresponding to the number can take it, and you
are thus never likely to be shoved out of your place, as you are at most of
the theatres in Europe. There are men stationed at the doors who follow you
into the parterre to unlock and let down a seat for you, and to them you
give your ticket with a slight gratification, which is however quite
optional; your ticket you previously pay for at the door.
VIENNA, Augt. 20th.
I have been to see Schoenbrunn, the usual residence of the young Napoleon;
but he is now at Baden with the Imperial family, where his mother, who is
lately arrived from Italy, is also on a visit. The young Napoleon is said
to be a remarkable fine boy, and a great favorite with his grandfather the
Emperor. Many are the anecdotes related of him. I shall mention one. He had
heard so often talk of his father, that shortly after the arrival of his
mother, he wished to see his father also and asked his attendants
repeatedly and not in a very patient tone: Wo ist denn mein Vater?[124]
This was told to his grandfather the Emperor; and he gave directions that
the child should be brought to him, the very next time he should put the
question. He then said to him: Du moechtestwissen wo dein Vater ist? Er ist
in Verhaft. Man hat es mit ihm gut gemeint; weil er aber unruhig war, so
hat man ihn in Verhaft gestellt, und Dich wird man auch verhaften, wenn Du
unruhig bist.[125]
So much for this anecdote; but I did not hear what was the answer of the
young prince. The young Napoleon is, it appears, a great favorite of the
soldiers, who quite adore him, and he will sometimes go into the kitchen to
get bread and meat to give to the soldiers on Guard at the Palace. A
singular event happened lately to Maria Louisa. During her stay at
Schonbrunn, her chatouille, with several things of value in it,
bijouterie, etc., was stolen from her. She caused enquiries to be made,
and researches to be set on foot. Nobody has been able to find out who took
it; but it was put back in the precise place from whence it was taken, and
not a single article of the bijouterie or things of value was missing. It
is supposed this theft was made for political purposes, in order to
discover the nature of her epistolary correspondence, if any existed. Had
it been taken by a vulgar thief, it is not probable that the articles of
value would have been restored. Such is the unhappy condition of that
Princess to be always an object of suspicion and espionnage.
Journey to Prague.
I left Vienna on the 28th August in a Landkutsche and arrived at Prague
on the first of September.
These Landkutsche are on the same plan and footing with the vetture in
Italy, and travel in the same manner, with this difference, however; that
the Landkutscher do not usually, as the vetturini do, undertake to
provide for the supper and bed of their passengers. In a word, you are not
spesato; and in Germany there is not the least necessity for it, for
there is no such thing as extortion on the part of the German innkeepers,
who are by far the most respectable of that profession.
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 133 of 149
Words from 134994 to 136017
of 151859
