The
correct reading of the first verse is: Des pretres fortunes, etc.
(Henriade, canto iv. ed. Kehl, vol. x, p. 97.) - ED.
[85] Horace, Sat., 1, 9, 4. - ED.
[86] Lady Elizabeth Hervey, second wife of William, fifth Duke of
Devonshire (1809); died March, 1824. - ED.
[87] A singular slip of the pen; Frye must have known that the equestrian
statue is a Roman work - ED.
[88] Ariosto, Orlando Furioso, xxxiii, 2, 4. - ED.
[89] See Lucian, Imag., iv; Amores, xv, xvi. - ED.
[90] Major Frye's description is incorrect in many particulars, on which it
seemed unnecessary to draw attention. - ED.
[91] Ariosto, Orlando Furioso, XI, 67, 6.
[92] That colossal marble statue was given to the Duke of Wellington by
Louis XVIII, and is still to be seen in London, at Apsley House. - ED.
CHAPTER XI
From Rome to Naples - Albano - Velletri - The Marshes - Terracina - Mola di
Gaeta - Capua - The streets of Naples - Monuments and Museums - Visit to
Pompeii and ascent to Vesuvius - Dangerous ventures - Puzzuoli and
Baiae - Theatres at Naples - Pulcinello - Return to Rome - Tivoli.
I started from Rome on the 26th September; in the same vettura I found an
intelligent young Frenchman of the name of R - - D - - , a magistrate in
Corsica, who was travelling in Italy for his amusement. There were besides
a Roman lawyer and not a very bright one by the bye; and a fat woman who
was going to Naples to visit her lover, a Captain in the Austrian service,
a large body of Austrian troops being still at Naples. We issued from Rome
by the Porta Latina and reached Albano (the ancient Alba) sixteen miles
distant at twelve o'clock. We reposed there two hours which gave me an
opportunity of visiting the Villa Doria where there are magnificent
gardens. These gardens form the promenade of the families who come to
Albano to pass the heat of the summer and to avoid the effect of the
exhalations of the marshy country about Rome.
As Albano is situated on an eminence, you have a fine view of the whole
plain of Latium and Rome in perspective. The country of Latium however is
flat, dreary and monotonous; it affords pasture to an immense quantity of
black cattle, such as buffaloes, etc.
Just outside of Albano, on the route to Naples, is a curious ancient
monument called Il sepolcro degli Orazj e Curiazj. It is built of brick,
is extremely solid, of singular appearance, from its being a square
monument, flanked at each angle by a tower in the shape of a cone. It is of
an uncouth rustic appearance and must certainly have been built before
Grecia capia ferum victorem cepit et artes
Intulit agresti Latio.....[93]
and I see no reason against its being the sepulchre of the Horatii and
Curiatii, particularly as it stands so near Alba where the battle was
fought; but be this as it may there is nothing like faith in matters of
antiquity; the sceptic can have little pleasure.
![After Waterloo: Reminiscences Of European Travel 1815-1819, By Major W. E Frye
- This man richly deserved his punishment.
[84] These lines are from Voltaire's Henriade, a poem which no Frenchman
reads nowadays - Page 168](../images/travel.jpg)
