Here And In The Strada Di Toledo The Noise Made By The Vendors Of Vegetables, Fruit, Lemonade, Iced Water And

Water-melons, who on holding out their wares to view, scream out "O che bella cosa!" - the noise and bustle

Of the cooks' shops in the open air and the cries of "Lavora!" made by the drivers of calessini (sort of carriage) makes such a deafening tintamarre that you can scarcely hear the voice of your companion who walks by your side. In the Largo del Palazzo there is always a large assembly of officers and others, besides a tolerable quantity of ruffiani, who fasten upon strangers in order to recommend to them their female acquaintances. A little further is the Quai of St Lucia, where the fish market is held, and here the cries increase. The quantity of fish of all sorts caught in the bay and exposed for sale in the market is immense and so much more than can be sold, that the rest is generally given away to the Lazzaroni. Here are delicious mullets, oysters, whitings, soles, prawns, etc. There is on the Quai of St Lucia a restaurant where naught but fish is served, but that is so well dressed and in such variety that amateurs frequently come to dine here on maigre days; for two carlini[95] you may eat fish of all sorts and bread at discretion. The wine is paid for extra. On the Quai of St Lucia is a fountain of mineral water which possesses the most admirable qualities for opening the primae viae and purifying the blood. It is an excellent drink for bilious people or for those afflicted with abdominal obstructions and diseases of the liver. It has a slight sulfurous mixed with a ferruginous taste, and is impregnated with a good deal of fixed air, which makes it a pleasant beverage. It should be taken every morning fasting. The presidency over this fountain is generally monopolized by a piscatory nymph who expects a grano for the trouble of filling you a glass or two. In reaching it to you she never fails to exclaim "Buono per le natiche," and it certainly has a very rapid effect; I look upon it as more efficacious than the Cheltenham waters and it is certainly much more agreeable in taste. At the end of the Quai of St Lucia is the Castello dell 'Uovo, a Gothic fortress, before the inner gate of which hangs an immense stuffed crocodile. This crocodile is said to have been found alive in the fosse of the castle, but how he came there has never been explained; there is an old woman's story that he came every day to the dungeon where prisoners were confined, and took out one for his dinner. The Castello dell 'Uovo stands on the extremity of a tongue of land which runs into the sea. After passing the Castello dell 'Uovo I came to the Chiaia or Quai properly so called, which is the most agreeable part of Naples and the favorite promenade of the beau-monde.

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