After Waterloo: Reminiscences Of European Travel 1815-1819, By Major W. E Frye













































































































 -  The ladies find a
great resource in going to church, which serves to pass away the time that
is not - Page 174
After Waterloo: Reminiscences Of European Travel 1815-1819, By Major W. E Frye - Page 174 of 291 - First - Home

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The Ladies Find A Great Resource In Going To Church, Which Serves To Pass Away The Time That Is Not Spent In Bed, Or At The Opera, Or At The Promenade En Voiture.

The ladies seldom take exercise on foot at Naples.

There being very little taste for litterature in this vast metropolis, the most pleasant society is among the foreign families who inhabit Naples or at the houses of the Corps diplomatique. There is, however, a good cabinet litteraire and library in the Strada di San Giacomo, where various French and Italian newspapers may be read. The Austrians occupy the greater part of the military posts at Naples; at the Royal Palace however the Sicilian guards do duty; they are clothed in scarlet and a anglaise.

NAPLES, 8th Octr.

One day I went to visit the Museum or Studii, as it is called, which is situated at the extremity of the Strada di Toledo on the land side. Here is a superb collection of sculpture and painting; and this building contains likewise the national library, and a choice and unique collection of Etruscan vases. A large hall contains these vases, which were found at Pompeii[96]; they are much admired for their beauty and simplicity; each vase has a mythological or historical painting on it. In this Museum I was shewn the rolls of papyrus found in Pompeii and Herculaneum and the method of unrolling them. The work to unroll which they are now employed at this Museum is a Greek treatise on philosophy by Epicurus. It is a most delicate operation to unroll these leaves, and with the utmost possible care it is impossible to avoid effacing many of the letters, and even sentences, in the act of unrolling. It must require also considerable learning and skill in the Greek language, combined with a good deal of practise, to supply the deficiency of the words effaced. When these manuscripts are put in print, the letters that remain on the papyrus are put in black type, and the words guessed at are supplied in red; so that you see at one glance what letters have been preserved, and what are supplied to replace those effaced by the operation of unrolling; and in this manner are all the papyrus manuscripts' printed.

Visit to Pompeii and Ascent of Vesuvius.

11th Oct.

We returned, Mr R - - D - - and I, from our visit to Vesuvius, half dead with fatigue from having had little or no rest the whole night, about three o'clock to Naples.

We left Naples in a caleche yesterday after breakfast and drove to Portici. Portici, Resina, and Torre del Greco are beautiful little towns on the sea-shore of the bay of Naples or rather they may be termed a continuation of the city, as they are close together in succession, and the interval filled up with villas. The distance from the gates of Naples to Portici is three miles. The road runs through the court yard of the Royal Palace at Portici which has a large archway at its entrance and sortie.

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