There Is But
One Inn At Terracina But That Is A Very Large One; There Is, However, But
Very Indifferent Fare And Bad Attendance.
The innkeeper is a sad
over-reaching rascal, who fleeces in the most unmerciful manner the
traveller who is not spesato.
He is obliged to furnish those who are
spesati with supper and lodging at the vetturino's price; but he always
grumbles at it, gives the worst supper he can and bestows it as if he were
giving alms. As the road between Terracina and Fondi (the first Neapolitan
town) is said to be at times infested by robbers, few travellers care to
start till broad daylight. We did so accordingly the following morning. On
arriving at a place called the Epitafio, from there being an ancient tomb
there, we took leave of the last Roman post. At one mile and half beyond
the Epitafio is the first Neapolitan post at a place called Torre de'
Confini, where we were detained half an hour to have our passports
examined and our portmanteaus searched. Three miles beyond this post is the
miserable and dirty town of Fondi, wherein our baggage again underwent a
strict search. On leaving Terracina the road strikes inland and has
mountains covered with wood to the right and to the left, nor do we behold
the sea again till just before we arrive at Mola di Gaeta, which is an
exceeding long straggling town on its banks; several fishing vessels lie
here and it is here that part of the Bay of Naples begins to open.
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