CHAPTER V
From Paris to Milan through Dijon, Chalon-sur-Saone, Lyons, Geneva and the
Simplon - Auxerre - Dijon - Napoleon at Chalon-sur-Saone - The army of the
Loire - Macon - French grisettes - Lyons - Monuments and theatricals -
Geneva - Character and opinions of the Genevois - Voltaire's chateau at
Ferney - The chevalier Zadera - From Geneva to Milan - Crossing the
Simplon - Arona - The theatres in Milan - Rossini - Monuments in Milan - Art
encouraged by the French - Mr Eustace's bigotry - Return to Switzerland
- Clarens and Vevey - Lausanne - Society in Lausanne - Return to Paris - The
Louvre stripped - Death of Marshal Ney.
PART II
CHAPTER VI
MARCH-JUNE, 1816
Ball at Cambray, attended by the Duke of Wellington - An Adventure between
Saint Quentin and Compiegne - Paris revisited - Colonel Wardle and Mrs
Wallis - Society in Paris - The Sourds-Muets - The Cemetery of Pere La
Chaise - Apathy of the French people - The priests - Marriage of the Duke de
Berri.
CHAPTER VII
Journey from Paris to Lausanne - Besancon - French refugees in Lausanne
- Francois Lamarque - General Espinassy - Bordas - Gautier - Michau - M. de
Laharpe - Mlle Michaud - Levade, a Protestant minister - Chambery - Aix
- Details about M. de Boigne's career in India - English Toryism and
intolerance - Valley of Maurienne - Passage across Mont Cenis and arrival at
Suza - Turin.
CHAPTER VIII
Journey from Turin to Bologna - Asti - Schiller and Alfieri - Italian
cuisine - The vetturini - Marengo - Piacenza - The Trebbia - Parma - The
Empress Maria Louisa - Modena - Bologna - The University - The Marescalchi
Gallery - Character of the Bolognese.
CHAPTER IX
Journey across the Appennines to Florence - Tuscan idioms and
customs - Monuments and galleries at Florence - The Cascino - Churches -
Theatres - Popularity of the Grand Duke - Napoleon's downfall not
regretted - Academies in Florence.
CHAPTER X
Journey from Florence to Rome - Sienna - Radicofani - Bolsena - Montefiascone
wine - Viterbo - Baccano - The Roman Campagna - The papal douans - Monuments
and Museums in Rome - Intolerance of the Catholic Christians - The Tiber and
the bridges - Character of the Romans - The Palazzi and Ville - Canova's
atelier - Theatricals - An execution in Rome.
CHAPTER XI
From Rome to Naples - Albano - Velletri - The Marshes - Terracina - Mola di
Gaeta - Capua - The streets of Naples - Monuments and Museums - Visit to
Pompeii and ascent to Vesuvius - Dangerous ventures - Puzzuoli and
Baiae - Theatres at Naples - Pulcinello - Return to Rome - Tivoli.
CHAPTER XII
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816
From Rome to Florence - Sismondi the historian - Reminiscences of
India - Lucca - Princess Elisa Baciqochi - Pisa - The Campo Santo - Leghorn -
Hebrews in Leghorn - Lord Dillon - The story of a lost glove - From Florence
to Lausanne by Milan, Turin and across Mont Cenis - Lombardy in winter - The
Hospice of Mont Cenis.
PART III
CHAPTER XIII
MARCH-SEPTEMBER, 1817
Journey from Lausanne to Clermont-Ferrand - A wretched conveyance - The
first dish of frogs - Society in Clermont-Ferrand - General de Vergennes -
Cleansing the town - Return to Lausanne - A zealous priest - Journey to Bern
and back to Lausanne - Avenches - Lake Morat - Lake Neufchatel - The Diet in
Bern - Character of the Bernois - A beautiful Milanese lady.
