After Waterloo: Reminiscences Of European Travel 1815-1819, By Major W. E Frye













































































































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CHAPTER XIV

SEPTEMBER, 1817-APRIL, 1818

Journey from Lausanne to Milan, Florence, Rome and Naples - Residence at
Naples - The theatre - Page 6
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CHAPTER XIV

SEPTEMBER, 1817-APRIL, 1818

Journey from Lausanne to Milan, Florence, Rome and Naples - Residence at Naples - The theatre of San Carlo - Rossini's operas - Gaming in Naples - The Lazzaroni - Public writers - Carbonarism - Return to Rome - Christmas eve at Santa Maria Maggiore - Mme Dionigi - Theatricals - Society in Rome - The papal government - Lucien Bonaparte, prince of Canino - Louis Napoleon, ex-King of Holland - Pope Pius VII - Thorwaldsen - Granet - The Holy Week in Rome - The Duchess of Devonshire - From Rome to Florence by the Perugia road.

CHAPTER XV

APRIL-JULY, 1818

Journey from Florence to Pisa and from thence by the Appennines to Genoa - Massa - Carrara - Genoa - Monuments and works of art - The Genoese - Return to Florence - Journey from Florence through Bologna and Ferrara to Venice - Monument to Ariosto in Ferrara - A description of Venice - Padua - Vicenza - Verona - Cremona - Return to Milan - The Scala theatre - Verona again - From Verona to Innspruck.

CHAPTER XVI

JULY-SEPTEMBER, 1818

Innspruck - Tyrol and the Tyrolese - From Innspruck to Munich - Monuments and churches - Theatricals - Journey from Munich to Vienna on a floss - Trouble with a passport - Complicated system of Austrian money - Description of Vienna - The Prater - The theatres - Schiller's Joan of Arc - A Kinderballet - The young Napoleon at Schoenbrunn - Journey from Vienna to Prague.

CHAPTER XVII

SEPTEMBER, 1818-MARCH, 1819

The splendid city of Prague - The German expression, "To give the basket" - Journey from Prague to Dresden - Journey from Dresden to Berlin - A description of Berlin - The Prussian Army - Theatricals - Peasants talk about Napoleon - Prussians and French should be allies - Absurd policy of the English Tories - Journey from Berlin to Dresden - A description of Dresden - The battle of Dresden in 1813 - Clubs at Dresden - Theatricals - German beds - Saxon scholars - The picture gallery - Tobacco an ally of Legitimacy - Saxon women - Meissen - Unjust policy of Europe towards the King of Saxony.

CHAPTER XVIII

MARCH-APRIL, 1819

Journey from Dresden to Leipzig - The University of Leipzig - Liberal spirit - The English disliked in Saxony - The English Government hostile to liberty - Journey to Frankfort - From Frankfort to Metz and Paris - A.F. Lemaitre - Bon voyage to the Allies - Return to England.

* * * * *

CHAPTER I

MAY-JUNE, 1815

Passage from Ceylon to England - Napoleon's return - Ostend - Bruges - Ghent - The King of France at Mass - Alost - Bruxelles - The Duke of Wellington very confident - Feelings of the Belgians - Good conduct of British troops - Monuments in Bruxelles - Theatricals - Genappe and Namur - Complaints against the Prussian troops - Mons - Major-General Adam - Tournay - A French deserter - General Clinton's division - Cavalry review - The Duke de Berri - Back to Bruxelles - Unjust opinions about Napoleon and the French - Battle at Ligny - The day of Waterloo in Bruxelles - Visit to the battlefield - Terrible condition of the wounded - Kindness of the Bruxellois.

BRUXELLES, May 1, 1815.

I proceed to the fulfilment of my promise, to give you from time to time the details of my tour, and my reflections on the circumstances that occur at this momentous crisis.

To me, who have spent the greatest part of my life out of Europe, the whole scene is so new that I am quite bewildered with it; and you will, I am afraid, as I write on the impulse of the moment, find my ideas at times rather incoherently put together.

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