Letters Of A Traveller, By William Cullen Bryant















































































































 - Letters of a Traveller;

Or, Notes of Things Seen in Europe and America

By William Cullen Bryant.

1850.




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Letters Of A Traveller;

Or, Notes of Things Seen in Europe and America

By William Cullen Bryant.

1850.

To the Reader.

The letters composing this volume were written at various times, during the last sixteen years, and during journeys made in different countries. They contain, however, no regular account of any tour or journey made by the writer, but are merely occasional sketches of what most attracted his attention. The greater part of them have already appeared in print.

The author is sensible that the highest merit such a work can claim, if ever so well executed, is but slight. He might have made these letters more interesting to readers in general, if he had spoken of distinguished men to whose society he was admitted; but the limits within which this may be done, with propriety and without offense, are so narrow, and so easily overstepped, that he has preferred to abstain altogether from that class of topics. He offers his book to the public, with expectations which will be satisfied by a very moderate success.

New York, _April_, 1850.

Contents.

To the Reader

Letter I. - First Impressions of an American in France. - Tokens of Antiquity: churches, old towns, cottages, colleges, costumes, donkeys, shepherds and their flocks, magpies, chateaux, formal gardens, vineyards, fig-trees. - First Sight of Paris; its Gothic churches, statues, triumphal arches, monumental columns. - Parisian gaiety, public cemeteries, burial places of the poor

Letter II. - Journey from Paris to Florence. - Serenity of the Italian Climate. - Dreary country between Paris and Chalons on the Saone. - Autun. - Chalons. - Lyons. - Valley of the Rhine. - Avignon. - Marseilles; its growth and prosperity. - Banking in France. - Journey along the Mediterranean. - American and European Institutions

Letter III. - Tuscan Scenery and Climate. - Florence in Autumn. - Deformities of Cultivation. - Exhibition of the Academy of the Fine Arts. - Respect of the Italians for Works of Art

Letter IV. - A Day in Florence. - Bustle and Animation of the Place. - Sights seen on the Bridges. - Morning in Florence. - Brethren of Mercy. - Drive on the Cascine. - Evening in Florence. - Anecdote of the Passport System. - Mildness of the Climate of Pisa

Letter V. - Practices of the Italian Courts. - Mildness of the Penal Code in Tuscany. - A Royal Murderer. - Ceremonies on the Birth of an Heir to the Dukedom of Tuscany. - Wealth of the Grand Duke

Letter VI. - Venice. - Its peculiar Architecture. - Arsenal and Navy Yard. - The Lagoons. - Ceneda. - Serravalle. - Lago Morto. - Alpine Scenery. - A June Snow-Storm in the Tyrol. - Splendor of the Scenery in the Sunshine. - Landro. - A Tyrolese Holiday. - Devotional Character of the People. - Numerous Chapels. - Sterzing. - Bruneck. - The Brenner. - Innsbruck. - Bronze Tomb of Maximilian I. - Entrance into Bavaria

Letter VII. - An Excursion to Rock River in Illinois. - Birds and Quadrupeds of the Prairies. - Dad Joe's Grove. - Beautiful Landscape. - Traces of the Indian Tribes. - Lost Rocks. - Dixon. - Rock River; beauty of its banks. - A Horse-Thief. - An Association of Felons. - A Prairie Rattlesnake. - The Prairie-Wolf; its habits. - The Wild Parsnip

Letter VIII. - Examples of Lynch Law. - Practices of Horse-Thieves in Illinois. - Regulators. - A Murder. - Seizure of the Assassins, their trial and execution. - One of the Accomplices lurking in the Woods. - Another Horse-Thief shot

Letter IX. - An Example of Senatorial Decorum. - The National Museum at Washington. - Mount Vernon. - Virginia Plantations. - Beauty of Richmond. - Islands of James River. - An Old Church. - Inspection of Tobacco. - Tobacco Factory. - Work and Psalmody. - Howden's Statue of Washington.

Letter X. - Journey from Richmond to Charleston. - Pine Forests of North Carolina. - Collection of Turpentine. - Harbor of Charleston. - Aspect of the City.

Letter XI. - Interior of South Carolina. - Pine Woods. - Plantations. - Swamps. - Birds. - A Corn-Shucking. - Negro Songs. - A Negro Military Parade. - Character of the Blacks. - Winter Climate of South Carolina.

Letter XII. - Picolata. - Beauty of the Season. - The St. John's. - A Hammock. - Voyage from Charleston to Savannah. - City of Savannah. - Quoit Club. - A Negro Burial-Place. - Curious Epitaphs. - Bonaventure. - Majestic Avenues of Live-Oaks. - Alligators. - Black Creek.

Letter XIII. - Woods of Florida. - Anecdotes of the Florida War. - Aspect of St. Augustine. - Its Streets. - Former Appearance of the City. - Orange Groves. - Fort of St. Mark. - Palm Sunday. - A Frenchman preaching in Spanish.

Letter XIV. - Climate of St. Augustine. - Tampa Bay. - Melons in January. - Insects in Southern Florida. - Healthfulness of East Florida. - A Sugar Plantation. - Island of St. Anastasia. - Quarries of Shell-Rock. - Customs of the Mahonese. - A Mahonese or Minorcan hymn.

Letter XV. - Florida the "Poor Man's Country." - Settlement of the Peninsula. - The Indian War. - Its Causes. - Causes of the Peace. - The Everglades. - St. Mary's in Georgia. - Plague of Sand-Flies. - Alligator Shooting. - Tobacco Chewing.

Letter XVI. - The Champlain Canal. - Beauty of its Banks. - Whitehall. - Canadian French. - A Family setting out for the West. - The Michigan Lay. - Vermont Scenery.

Letter XVII. - Grasshoppers. - White Clover. - Domestic Arrangements of two unmarried Ladies. - Canadian French Laborers. - Quakers. - A Pretty Mantua Maker. - Anecdote told by a Quakeress. - Walpole. - Keene. - A Family of healthy young Women.

Letter XVIII. - A Voyage to Liverpool. - Mountains of Wales. - Growth of Liverpool. - Aspect of the Place. - Zoological Gardens. - Cemetery among the Rocks. - Ornamental Cultivation. - Prince's Park. - Chester. - Manchester. - Calico Printing.

Letter XIX. - Edale in Derbyshire. - A Commercial Traveller. - Chapel-en-le-Frith. - The Winnets. - Mam Tor. - Heathy Hills. - The Lark. - Caverns of the Peak of Derbyshire. - Castle of the Peverils. - People of Derbyshire. - Matlock. - Derby.

Letter XX. - Works of Art. - Power's Greek Slave. - Exhibition of the Royal Academy. - Turner's late Pictures. - Webster. - Thorburn. - New Houses of Parliament. - Artists in Water-Colors.

Letter XXI. - The Parks of London. - Their Extent. - Want of Parks in New York. - Sweeping of the Streets. - Safety from Housebreaking. - Beggars. - Increase of Poverty.

Letter XXII. - Edinburg. - The Old Town. - The Castle. - Solid Architecture of the New Town. - Views from the different Eminences. - Poverty in the Wynds and Alleys. - Houses of Refuge for the Destitute. - Night Asylums for the Houseless. - The Free Church. - The Maynooth Grant. - Effect of Endowments.

Letter XXIII. - Fishwomen of Newhaven. - Frith of Forth. - Stirling. - Callander. - The Trosachs. - Loch Achray. - Loch Katrine. - Loch Lomond. - Glenfalloch. - Dumbarton. - The Leven.

Letter XXIV.

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