We insisted upon his inquiring, first, if that
was Dr. Nichol's. He took off our trunk, and would have
Us go in; we
resisted; and after a while he rang the bell, and the answer was,
"Dr. Nichol lives in the next house." Still higher we had to climb,
and at last stopped at the veritable Observatory, where our friend,
who was expecting us, lived. Nothing could exceed the hospitality
with which we were received.
Early, one misty, smoky morning, I embarked in one of the famous
little Clyde steamers, and set out on a Highland tour. I had heard
of old Scotia's barren hills, clothed with the purple heather and
the yellow gorse, of her deep glens, of her romantic streams; but
the reality went far beyond the description, or my imagination. The
hills are all bare of trees, but their outline is very beautiful and
infinitely varied. Picture to yourself a ridge of hills or mountains
all purple with the heather, relieved with the silver-gray of the
rocks and with patches of the bright yellow gorse, and all this
harmony of color reflected in the green sea water which runs winding
far in among the hills. As the light changes, these colors are
either brought out more strongly, or mingle into one soft lilac
color, or sometimes a sort of purple-gray. Your eye is enchanted,
and never weary of looking and admiring. I would not have any trees
on the Scotch hills; I would not have them other than they are.
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