Journal Of An Overland Expedition In Australia, By Ludwig Leichhardt




















































































































 - Journal of an Overland Expedition in Australia: From Moreton Bay
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Journal Of An Overland Expedition In Australia:

From Moreton Bay to Port Essington, a distance of upwards of 3000 miles, during the years 1844-1845

By Ludwig Leichhardt

Production notes: Footnotes inserted in square brackets [] at point where referenced, or at end of paragraph. Plates (illustrations) not included. A list of plates is given at end of Table of Contents.

"Die Gotter brauchen manchen guten Mann Zu ihrem Dienst auf dieser weiten Erde"

GOETHE, Iph. auf Tauris.

To WILLIAM ALLEYNE NICHOLSON, ESQ., M.D. of Bristol; To ROBERT LYND, ESQ. OF SYDNEY And to THE GENEROUS PEOPLE OF NEW SOUTH WALES This work is respectfully and gratefully dedicated, By The Author

PREFACE

In preparing this volume for the press, I have been under the greatest obligations to Captain P. P. King, R. N., an officer whose researches have added so much to the geography of Australia. This gentleman has not only corrected my manuscript, but has added notes, the value of which will be appreciated by all who consider the opportunities he has had of obtaining the most correct information upon these subjects, during his surveys of the coasts parallel to my track.

To S. A. Perry, Esq., Deputy Surveyor General, I am extremely indebted for the assiduous labour he has bestowed in draughting my map. I shall ever remember the friendly interest he expressed, and the courteous attention with which he listened to the details of my journey.

From the Rev. W. B. Clarke, in addition to the unvaried kindness he has evinced towards me since my arrival in Australia, I have received every assistance which his high scientific acquirements enabled him to give.

I take this opportunity of publicly expressing my most sincere thanks to these gentlemen, for the generous assistance they have afforded me on this occasion, and for the warm interest which they have been kind enough to take in the success of my approaching enterprise.

LUDWIG LEICHIJARDT. SYDNEY, September 29th, 1846.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER I LEAVE THE LAST STATION - FOSSIL REMAINS - DARLING DOWNS - ENTER THE WILDERNESS - WATERLOO PLAINS - THE CONDAMINE - HEAVY RAINS - CHARLEY'S MISCONDUCT - MURPHY AND CALEB LOST - KENT'S LAGOON - COAL - MURPHY AND CALEB FOUND AGAIN.

CHAPTER II PARTY REDUCED BY THE RETURN OF MR. HODGSON AND CALEB - MEET FRIENDLY NATIVES - NATIVE TOMB - THE DAWSON - VERVAIN PLAINS - GILBERT'S RANGE - LYND'S RANGE - ROBINSON'S CREEK - MURPHY'S LAKE - MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY - EXPEDITION RANGE - MOUNT NICHOLSON - ALDIS'S PEAK - THE BOYD.

CHAPTER III RUINED CASTLE CREEK - ZAMIA CREEK - BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN - ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED - NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE - CHRISTMAS RANGES - BROWN'S LAGOONS - THUNDER-STORMS - ALBINIA DOWNS - COMET CREEK - NATIVE CAMP.

CHAPTER IV SWARMS OF COCKATOOS - ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR FURTHER REDUCED - NATIVE FAMILY - THE MACKENZIE - COAL - NATIVES SPEAKING A DIFFERENT IDIOM - MOUNT STEWART - BROWN AND MYSELF MISS THE WAY BACK TO THE CAMP - FIND OUR PARTY AGAIN, ON THE FOURTH DAY - NEUMAN'S CREEK - ROPER'S PEAK - CALVERT'S PEAK - GILBERT'S DOME - GREAT WANT OF WATER.

CHAPTER V DIFFERENCE OF SOIL AS TO MOISTURE - PHILLIPS'S MOUNTAIN - ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR REDUCED AGAIN - HUGHS'S CREEK - TOMBSTONE CREEK - CHARLEY AND BROWN BECOME UNRULY - THE ISAACS - NATIVE WOMEN - COXEN'S PEAK AND RANGE - GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER - CHARLEY REBELS AGAIN AND LEAVES - BROWN FOLLOWS HIM - BOTH RETURN PENITENT - VARIATIONS OF THE WEATHER - SKULL OF NATIVE - FRIENDLY NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP.

CHAPTER VI HEADS OF THE ISAACS - THE SUTTOR - FLINT-ROCK - INDICATIONS OF WATER - DINNER OF THE NATIVES APPROPRIATED BY US - EASTER SUNDAY - ALARM OF AN OLD WOMAN - NATIVES SPEAKING A LANGUAGE ENTIRELY UNKNOWN TO CHARLEY AND BROWN - A BARTER WITH THEM - MOUNT M'CONNEL.

CHAPTER VII THE BURDEKIN - TRANSITION FROM THE DEPOSITORY TO THE PRIMITIVE ROCKS - THACKER'S RANGE - WILD FIGS - GEOLOGICAL REMARKS - THE CLARKE - THE PERRY.

CHAPTER VIII BROWN AND CHARLEY QUARREL - NIGHT WATCH - ROUTINE OF OUR DAILY LIFE, AND HABITS OF THE MEMBERS OF THE PARTY - MOUNT LANG - STREAMS OF LAVA - A HORSE BREAKS HIS LEG, IS KILLED AND EATEN - NATIVE TRIBE - MR. ROPER'S ACCIDENT - WHITSUNDAY - BIG ANT HILL CREEK - DEPRIVED OF WATER FOR FIFTY HOURS - FRIENDLY NATIVES - SEPARATION CREEK - THE LYND - PSYCHOLOGICAL EFFECTS OF A SOJOURN IN THE WILDERNESS - NATIVE CAMP - SALT EXHAUSTED.

CHAPTER IX THE STARRY HEAVENS - SUBSTITUTE FOR COFFEE - SAWFISH - TWO-STORIED GUNYAS OF THE NATIVES - THE MITCHELL - MURPHY'S PONY POISONED - GREEN TREE-ANT - NEW BEVERAGE - CROCODILE - AUDACITY OF KITES - NATIVES NOT FRIENDLY - THE CAMP ATTACKED AT NIGHT BY THEM - MESSRS. ROPER AND CALVERT WOUNDED, AND MR. GILBERT KILLED.

CHAPTER X INDICATIONS OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF THE SEA - NATIVES MUCH MORE NUMEROUS - THE SEA; THE GULF OF CARPENTARIA - THE STAATEN - A NATIVE INTRUDES INTO THE CAMP - THE VAN DIEMEN - THE GILBERT - SINGULAR NATIVE HUTS - CARON RIVER - FRIENDLY NATIVES - THE YAPPAR - MR. CALVERT RECOVERED - MODE OF ENCAMPMENT - SWARMS OF FLIES - ABUNDANCE OF SALT - NATIVES FRIENDLY, AND MORE INTELLIGENT.

CHAPTER XI SYSTEMATIC GRASS BURNINGS OF THE NATIVES - NATIVE CARVING - AUDACITY OF THE NATIVES OVERAWED - THE ALBERT, OR MAET SUYKER - NATIVE MODE OF MAKING SURE OF A DEAD EMU - BULLOCK BOGGED; OBLIGED TO KILL IT - NATIVE DEVICE FOR TAKING EMUS - BEAMES'S BROOK - THE NICHOLSON - RECONNOITRE BY NIGHT - SMITH'S CREEK - THE MARLOW.

CHAPTER XII HEAPS OF OYSTER-SHELLS - FALSE ALARM OF A NATIVE IN THE CAMP - TURNER'S CREEK - WENTWORTH'S CREEK - JOURNALS LOST; FOUND AGAIN - THE VAN ALPHEN - IMPORTANCE OF TEA - CHOICE OF BULLOCKS FOR AN EXPEDITION - CHOICE OF A DOG - THE CALVERT - THE ABEL TASMAN - GLUCKING BIRD AGAIN - DISCOVER A MODE OF USING THE FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS - SEVEN EMU RIVER - CROCODILE - THE ROBINSON - SHOAL OF PORPOISES - NATIVE METHOD OF PREPARING THE FRUIT OF THE PANDANUS AND CYCAS FOR FOOD - MR. ROPER CONVALESCENT - WEAR AND TEAR OF CLOTHES - SUCCEED IN DRESSING THE SEEDS OF STERCULIA - THE MACARTHUR - FRIENDLY PARLEY WITH CIRCUMCISED NATIVES - STORE OF TEA EXHAUSTED - MEDICAL PROPERTY OF THE GREVILLEA DISCOVERED.

CHAPTER XIII CAPE MARIA - OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF OUR COLLECTION OF NATURAL HISTORY - LIMMEN BIGHT RIVER - HABITS OF WATER BIRDS - NATIVE FISH TRAP - THE FOUR ARCHERS - THE WICKHAM - THE DOG DIES - IMMENSE NUMBER OF DUCKS AND GEESE - THE ROPER - THREE HORSES DROWNED - OBLIGED TO LEAVE A PORTION OF MY BOTANICAL COLLECTION - MORE INTERCOURSE WITH FRIENLDY NATIVES, CIRCUMCISED - HODGSON'S CREEK - THE WILTON - ANOTHER HORSE DROWNED - ANXIETY ABOUT OUR CATTLE - AN ATTACK ON THE CAMP FRUSTRATED - BOILS - BASALT AGAIN - INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF THE SEEDS OF AN ACACIA.

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