The valley itself is a
wilderness of woodland; with links of streams flashing through, and
narrow pathways fairly tunnelled through masses of foliage.
All alone, in this wild place, was the abode of the planters; the only
one back from the beach - their sole neighbours, the few fishermen and
their families, dwelling in a small grove of cocoa-nut trees whose
roots were washed by the sea.
The cleared tract which they occupied comprised some thirty acres,
level as a prairie, part of which was under cultivation; the whole
being fenced in by a stout palisade of trunks and boughs of trees
staked firmly in the ground. This was necessary as a defence against
the wild cattle and hogs overrunning the island.
Thus far, Tombez potatoes were the principal crop raised; a ready sale
for them being obtained among the shipping touching at Papeetee.
There was a small patch of the taro, or Indian turnip, also; another
of yams; and in one corner, a thrifty growth of the sugar-cane, just
ripening.
On the side of the inclosure next the sea was the house; newly built
of bamboos, in the native style. The furniture consisted of a couple
of sea-chests, an old box, a few cooking utensils, and agricultural
tools; together with three fowling-pieces, hanging from a rafter; and
two enormous hammocks swinging in opposite corners, and composed of
dried bullocks' hides, stretched out with poles.
The whole plantation was shut in by a dense forest; and, close by the
house, a dwarfed "Aoa," or species of banian-tree, had purposely been
left twisting over the palisade, in the most grotesque manner, and
thus made a pleasant shade. The branches of this curious tree
afforded low perches, upon which the natives frequently squatted,
after the fashion of their race, and smoked and gossiped by the hour.
We had a good breakfast of fish - speared by the natives, before
sunrise, on the reef - pudding of Indian turnip, fried bananas, and
roasted bread-fruit.
During the repast, our new friends were quite sociable and
communicative. It seems that, like nearly all uneducated foreigners,
residing in Polynesia, they had, some time previous, deserted from a
ship; and, having heard a good deal about the money to be made by
raising supplies for whaling-vessels, they determined upon embarking
in the business. Strolling about, with this intention, they, at last,
came to Martair; and, thinking the soil would suit, set themselves to
work. They began by finding out the owner of the particular spot
coveted, and then making a "tayo" of him.
He turned out to be Tonoi, the chief of the fishermen:
