As for Kooloo, after sponging me well, he one morning played the part
of a retrograde lover; informing me that his affections had undergone
a change; he had fallen in love at first sight with a smart sailor,
who had just stepped ashore quite flush from a lucky whaling-cruise.
It was a touching interview, and with it, our connection dissolved.
But the sadness which ensued would soon have been dissipated, had not
my sensibilities been wounded by his indelicately sporting some of my
gifts very soon after this transfer of his affections. Hardly a day
passed that I did not meet him on the Broom Road, airing himself in a
regatta shirt which I had given him in happier hours.
He went by with such an easy saunter too, looking me pleasantly in the
eye, and merely exchanging the cold salute of the road: - "Yar onor,
boyoee," a mere sidewalk how d'ye do. After several experiences like
this, I began to entertain a sort of respect for Kooloo, as quite a
man of the world. In good sooth, he turned out to be one; in one
week's time giving me the cut direct, and lounging by without even
nodding. He must have taken me for part of the landscape.
Before the chests were quite empty, we had a grand washing in the
stream of our best raiment, for the purpose of looking tidy, and
visiting the European chapel in the village. Every Sunday morning it
is open for divine service, some member of the mission officiating.
This was the first time we ever entered Papeetee unattended by an
escort.
In the chapel there were about forty people present, including the
officers of several ships in harbour. It was an energetic discourse,
and the pulpit cushion was well pounded. Occupying a high seat in the
synagogue, and stiff as a flagstaff, was our beloved guardian,
Wilson. I shall never forget his look of wonder when his interesting
wards filed in at the doorway, and took up a seat directly facing
him.
Service over, we waited outside in hopes of seeing more of him; but
sorely annoyed at the sight of us, he reconnoitred from the window,
and never came forth until we had started for home.
CHAPTER XLI.
WE LEVY CONTRIBUTIONS ON THE SHIPPING
SCARCELY a week went by after the Julia's sailing, when, with the
proverbial restlessness of sailors, some of the men began to grow
weary of the Calabooza Beretanee, and resolved to go boldly among the
vessels in the bay, and offer to ship.
The thing was tried; but though strongly recommended by the commodore
of the beachcombers, in the end they were invariably told by the
captains to whom they applied that they bore an equivocal character
ashore, and would not answer. So often were they repulsed that we
pretty nearly gave up all thoughts of leaving the island in this way;
and growing domestic again, settled down quietly at Captain Bob's.
It was about this time that the whaling-ships, which have their
regular seasons for cruising, began to arrive at Papeetee; and of
course their crews frequently visited us. This is customary all over
the Pacific. No sailor steps ashore, but he straightway goes to the
"Calabooza," where he is almost sure to find some poor fellow or other
in confinement for desertion, or alleged mutiny, or something of that
sort. Sympathy is proffered, and if need be, tobacco. The latter,
however, is most in request; as a solace to the captive, it is
invaluable.
Having fairly carried the day against both consul and captain, we were
objects of even more than ordinary interest to these philanthropists;
and they always cordially applauded our conduct. Besides, they
invariably brought along something in the way of refreshments;
occasionally smuggling in a little Pisco. Upon one occasion, when
there was quite a number present, a calabash was passed round, and a
pecuniary collection taken up for our benefit.
One day a newcomer proposed that two or three of us should pay him a
sly, nocturnal visit aboard his ship; engaging to send us away well
freighted with provisions. This was not a bad idea; nor were we at
all backward in acting upon it. Right after night every vessel in
the harbour was visited in rotation, the foragers borrowing Captain
Bob's canoe for the purpose. As we all took turns at this - two by two
- in due course it came to Long Ghost and myself, for the sailors
invariably linked us together. In such an enterprise, I somewhat
distrusted the doctor, for he was no sailor, and very tall; and a
canoe is the most ticklish of navigable things. However, it could
not be helped; and so we went.
But a word about the canoes before we go any further. Among the
Society Islands, the art of building them, like all native
accomplishments, has greatly deteriorated; and they are now the most
inelegant, as well as the most insecure of any in the South Seas. In
Cook's time, according to his account, there was at Tahiti a royal
fleet of seventeen hundred and twenty large war canoes, handsomely
carved, and otherwise adorned. At present, those used are quite
small; nothing more than logs hollowed out, sharpened at one end, and
then launched into the water.
To obviate a certain rolling propensity, the Tahitians, like all
Polynesians, attach to them what sailors call an "outrigger." It
consists of a pole floating alongside, parrallel to the canoe, and
connected with it by a couple of cross sticks, a yard or more in
length. Thus equipped, the canoe cannot be overturned, unless you
overcome the buoyancy of the pole, or lift it entirely out of the
water.
