[Illustration: OUR OCEAN STEAMER.]
Now the bell sounds a warning to our visitors to say good-by. They leave
the boat, and soon we are off. As we leave the harbor we listen to the
band playing "America" and the "Star Spangled Banner," and take the last
glimpse of our native land which we shall have for a month.
It is not far from the dinner hour, so we now visit the dining-room for
the purpose of securing our place at the table from the head steward.
We next secure a steamer chair, and have the deck steward place it in a
comfortable, sheltered place on deck. It is well, before long, to visit
our staterooms, and put our clothes and other belongings in order for
the trip.
By the time this is done dinner is announced. Somehow we do not feel
very hungry. The vessel rolls about so that we begin to feel dizzy. We
think we would rather go to bed, and we try to do so, but find it rather
difficult.
The stewardess comes in just then, and asks if she may help us. With her
assistance we climb into our berths. Rock, rock, rock! If the boat would
only be quiet one moment! We are very seasick by this time, and feel as
if we never wish to eat another meal. The motion of the boat lulls us to
sleep by and by, and the next thing we know it is morning.
The air in our stateroom seems close and "stuffy," so we gladly leave it
and go on deck, where we remain for the rest of the day. The steward
serves our meals to us here, and we spend the time in our steamer
chairs, watching the white-capped waves, the sea gulls over us, and the
porpoises following the boat for food.
After the first day out we sail into smoother seas and warmer weather.
We throw aside our wraps and put on lighter clothing. We also don broad
shade-hats to protect our eyes from the glare of the light upon the
water.
A favorable wind bears us southward to the tropical sea, which many
people consider among the most beautiful things in the world.
The water of the Bahama sea is wonderful because of its clearness and
its deep purple color. A cloud shadow changes the purple into emerald.
Looking down into the clear depths, we see the dolphins as distinctly
as the birds overhead. Shoals of flying fish dart out of the water,
their fins serving as sails for an instant; then they drop back again.
Many other new and interesting objects and scenes add to the pleasure of
our voyage from the great northern metropolis to the capital of the
island in the southern seas. These we can not tell about now.
* * * * *
SAN JUAN.
While we are learning of the plant and animal life about and beneath us,
the good ship bears us swiftly on, and all too soon we are at our
journey's end.
We seem hardly to have left the shadow of Liberty's towering torch in
New York harbor, before the gray walls of Morro Castle appear above the
horizon. Far out at sea, this massive stone fort with its beacon light
attracts our attention.
Across the harbor entrance the white-capped waves rush furiously over
each other in a mad race toward the shore. Passing through this narrow
channel, the ship glides into the harbor under the guns of the two
picturesque old forts which guard it, and we get our first glimpse of
San Juan.
[Illustration: STATUE OF LIBERTY - NEW YORK HARBOR.]
Our first view of this beautiful old city fills us with anticipations
of pleasure. We find that the ground upon which the city lies slopes
upward from the calm, broad harbor to the forts that guard its heights.
Here and there a tall palm-tree rears its graceful head above the tops
of the gayly colored buildings that glisten in the sunlight.
Our guide tells us that San Juan is one of the most perfectly fortified
cities in the world. It is easy to believe this when, from the ocean and
from the bay, we see the massive walls and battlements of the forts that
guard the north and east.
We learn that they are cut from the solid rock which crowns the crest of
the narrow peninsula. The steep walls of the vast castle of San
Cristobal overshadow the whole city.
The city is built on an island, connected with the mainland by a bridge.
It is surrounded by a high, thick stone wall: that is, it was once upon
a time; but the city is now extended far beyond the walls. Inside is the
city proper, or old San Juan. Outside are the more modern buildings and
the suburbs.
San Juan is not only the seat of government, but it is considered the
first city of Puerto Rico in interest and in importance. Ponce, however,
disputes this claim. It has the best harbor, and the best public
buildings, churches and schools on the island.
The palace of the governor-general and the headquarters of the American
administration we find located in San Juan.
Over thirty thousand people make their homes in this city, and a goodly
number of them we find at the shore to meet our vessel. They do not wait
for us to land. They come out to meet us.
Dusky natives in landing boats are soon alongside, and we learn to our
surprise that our ship does not go to the dock. We are to go ashore in
these small awning-covered boats. This is a new experience for us, but
it is an old Spanish custom.
[Illustration: LANDING FROM OUR STEAMER AT SAN JUAN.]
The steward of the ship tells us that we may retain our rooms and use
the ship as a hotel during the stay in port, going ashore for
sight-seeing when we like.
