The scene of the fire was rather distant from our house,
but we had scarcely gone a hundred steps when we found ourselves in
a great crowd of people, who all carried paper lanterns, {330a} by
which the streets were lighted. Every one was shouting and rushing
wildly about; the inhabitants of the houses threw open their windows
and inquired of the passers by the extent of the danger, and gazed
with anxiety and trembling at the reflection of the flames in the
sky. Every now and then sounded the shrill cry of "Guarda! guarda!"
(take care) of the people, who carried small fire-engines {330b} and
buckets of water on their shoulders, and knocked everything over
that was in their way. Mounted and foot soldiers and watchmen
rushed about, and Pashas rode down with their attendants to urge the
people on in extinguishing the fire, and to render them assistance.
Unfortunately almost all these labours are fruitless. The fire
takes such hold of the wooden buildings painted with oil colours,
and spreads with such incredible rapidity that it is stopped only by
open spaces or gardens. One fire often destroys several thousand
houses. The unfortunate inhabitants have scarce time to save
themselves; those who live some distance off hastily pack their
effects together and hold themselves prepared for flight at any
moment. It may easily be supposed that thieves are not rare on such
occasions, and it too often happens that the few things the poor
people have saved are torn away from them in the bustle and
confusion.
The second fire broke out in the following night. Every one had
retired to sleep, but the fire-watch rushed through the street,
knocking with his iron-mounted staff at the doors of the houses and
waking the people. I sprang terrified out of bed, ran to the
window, and saw in the direction of the fire a faint red light in
the sky. In a few hours the noise and redness ceased. They have at
last begun to build stone houses, not only in Pera but also in
Constantinople.
I left Constantinople on the evening of the 7th of October, by the
French steamer Scamander, one hundred and sixty-horse power.
The passage from Constantinople to Smyrna, and through the Greek
Archipelago is described in my journey to the Holy Land, and I
therefore pass on at once to Greece.
I had been told, in Constantinople, that the quarantine was held in
the Piraeus (six English miles from Athens), and lasted only four
days, as the state of health in Turkey was perfectly satisfactory.
Instead of this, I learnt on the steamer that it was held at the
island of AEgina (sixteen English miles from Piraeus), and lasted
twelve days, not on account of the plague but of the cholera. For
the plague it lasts twenty days.
On the 10th of October we caught sight of the Grecian mainland.
Sailing near the coast, we saw on the lofty prominence of a rock
twelve large columns, the remains of the Temple of Minerva. Shortly
afterwards we came near the hill on which the beautiful Acropolis
stands. I gazed for a long time on all that was to be seen; the
statues of the Grecian heroes, the history of the country came back
to my mind; and I glowed with desire to set my foot on the land
which, from my earliest childhood, had appeared to me, after Rome
and Jerusalem, as the most interesting in the earth. How anxiously
I sought for the new town of Athens - it stands upon the same spot as
the old and famous one. Unfortunately, I did not see it, as it was
hidden from us by a hill. We turned into the Piraeus, on which a
new town has also been built, but only stopped to deliver up our
passports, and then sailed to AEgina.
It was already night when we arrived; a boat was quickly put out,
and we were conveyed to the quay near the quarantine station.
Neither the porters nor servants of this establishment were there to
help us, and we were obliged to carry our own baggage to the
building, where we were shown into empty rooms. We could not even
get a light. I had fortunately a wax taper with me, which I cut
into several pieces and gave to my fellow-passengers.
On the following morning I inquired about the regulations of the
quarantine - they were very bad and very dear. A small room, quite
empty, cost three drachmas (2s. 3d.) a-day; board, five drachmas
(3s. 9d.); very small separate portions, sixty or seventy leptas
(6d. or 7d.); the attendance, that is, the superintendence of the
guardian, two drachmas a-day; the supply of water, fifteen leptas
daily; the physician, a drachma; and another drachma on leaving, for
which he inspects the whole party, and examines the state of their
health. Several other things were to be had at a similar price, and
every article of furniture has to be hired.
I cannot understand how it is that the government pays so little
attention to institutions which are established for sanitary
purposes and which the poor cannot avoid. They must suffer more
privation here than at home; they cannot have any hot meals, for the
landlord, who is not restricted in his prices, charges five or six
times the value. Several artizans who had come by the vessel were
put into the same room with a servant-girl. These people had no hot
food the twelve days; they lived entirely upon bread, cheese, and
dried figs. The girl, after a few days, begged me to let her come
into my room, as the people had not behaved properly to her.
