A convenient seat was placed upon his broad back,
which might be compared to a phaeton without wheels. The elephant
was made to kneel down, a ladder was placed against his side, and
Mr. Law and myself took our places. Behind us sat a servant, who
held an enormously large umbrella over our heads. The driver sat
upon the neck of the animal, and pricked it now and then between the
ears with a sharp-pointed iron rod.
The young prince, with his attendant and servants, took their places
upon the other elephants. Several officers on horseback rode at our
side, two soldiers with drawn sabres ran in front of the party to
clear the way, and upwards of a dozen soldiers, also with drawn
sabres, surrounded us, while a few mounted soldiers brought up the
rear.
Although the motion of the elephant is quite as jolting and
unpleasant as that of the camel, this truly Indian ride afforded me
great pleasure.
When we had arrived at the garden, the young prince seemed by his
proud look to ask whether we were not charmed with its magnificence.
Our delight was unfortunately assumed, for the garden was far too
plain to deserve much praise. In the back-ground of the garden
stands a somewhat ruinous royal summer palace.
As we were about leaving the garden, the gardener brought us some
beautiful nosegays and delicious fruits - a custom universal in
India.
Outside the garden was a very large water-basin, covered with
handsome blocks of stone; broad steps led up to the water, and at
the corner stood beautiful kiosks, ornamented with tolerably well-
executed reliefs.
The Rajah of Benares receives from the English government an annual
pension of one lac, that is, 100,000 rupees (10,000 pounds). He is
said to receive as much more from his property, and nevertheless to
be very much in debt. The causes of this are his great extravagance
in clothes and jewellery, his numerous wives, servants, horses,
camels, and elephants, etc. I was told that the prince has forty
wives, about a thousand servants and soldiers, a hundred horses,
fifty camels, and twenty elephants.
On the following morning the Rajah sent to inquire how the excursion
had pleased us, and presented me with confectionery, sweetmeats, and
the rarest fruits; among others, grapes and pomegranates, which at
this time of the year are scarce. They came from Cabul, which is
about 700 miles distant from this place.
Finally, I must mention that for many years no one has died in the
palace which the Rajah occupies. The reason of this is said to be
the following: - "One of the rulers of this palace once asked a
Brahmin what would become of the soul of any one who died in the
palace.
