The garden afforded me more pleasure than the monuments - especially
on account of the enormous tamarind-trees. I thought that I had
seen the largest in Brazil, but the ground, or perhaps the climate,
here appears more favourable to this species of trees. Not only is
the garden full of such magnificent specimens, but there are
beautiful avenues of them round the town. The tamarinds of
Allahabad are even mentioned in geographical works.
On one side of the lofty wall which surrounds the garden, two
caravansaries are built, which are remarkable for their beautiful
high portals, their size, and convenient arrangement. They
presented an uncommonly lively appearance, containing people in all
costumes, horses, oxen, camels, and elephants, and a large quantity
of wares in chests, bales, and sacks.
10th January. About 3 in the afternoon, we left Allahabad and
continued our journey in a post-dock as far as Agra, with some short
stoppages. The distance is nearly 300 miles.
In twenty-two hours we reached Caunipoor (150 miles), on the Ganges,
a town which is remarkable for its English settlement.
The journey so far offered little change, an uninterrupted richly-
cultivated plain and an unfrequented road. With the exception of a
few companies of military, we did not meet a single traveller.
A party of military on the march in India resembles a small
emigration company; and, after seeing one, it is easy to form an
idea of the enormous trains of the Persian and other Asiatic armies.
The greater part of the native soldiers are married, as well as the
officers (Europeans); therefore, when the regiment marches, there
are nearly as many women and children as soldiers. The women and
children ride, two or three together, upon horses or oxen, or sit
upon cars, or go on foot with bundles on their backs. They have all
their effects packed upon cars, and drive their goats and cows
before them. The officers follow, with their families, in European
carriages, palanquins, or on horseback. Their tents, house
furniture, etc., are packed upon camels and elephants, which
generally bring up the rear. The camp is pitched on both sides of
the road - on one side are the people, and on the other the animals.
Caunipoor is a strong military station, with four handsome barracks;
there is also an important missionary society. The town possesses
some handsome schools and private buildings, and a Christian church,
in pure Gothic style.
12th January. Towards noon, we reached the small village of Beura.
Here we found a bungalow; that is, a small house with two or four
rooms barely furnished with the most necessary and plainest
furniture. These bungalows stand upon the post-roads, and supply
the place of hotels. They are built by government. One person pays
one rupee (2s.) a day for a small room; a family, two rupees.
