I then drew a circle round my place and forbade them to cross it, an
injunction they scrupulously attended to.
I had now only to deal with the wife of my guide. She laid siege to
me the whole day, coming as near to me as possible, and teasing me
to give her some of my things. I gave her a few trifles, for I had
not much with me, and she then wanted everything. Fortunately her
husband came out of the house just then; I called him and complained
of his wife, and at the same time threatened to leave his house, and
seek shelter somewhere else, well knowing that the Arabs consider
this a great disgrace. He immediately ordered her harshly out, and
I at last had peace. I always succeeded in carrying out my own
will. I found that energy and boldness have a weight with all
people, whether Arabs, Persians, Bedouins, or others.
Towards evening I saw, to my great delight, a cauldron of mutton set
on the fire. For eight days I had eaten nothing but bread,
cucumber, and some dates; and, therefore, had a great desire for a
hot and more nutritious meal. But my appetite was greatly
diminished when I saw their style of cookery. The old woman (my
guide's mother) threw several handsful of small grain, and a large
quantity of onions, into a pan full of water to soften. In about
half an hour she put her dirty hands into the water, and mixed the
whole together, now and then taking a mouthful, and, after chewing
it, spitting it back again into the pan. She then took a dirty rag,
and strained off the juice, which she poured over the flesh in the
pot.
I had firmly made up my mind not to touch this food; but when it was
ready it gave out such an agreeable odour, and my hunger was so
great, that I broke my resolution, and remembered how many times I
had eaten of food the preparation of which was not a whit cleaner.
What was so bad in the present instance was that I had seen the
whole process.
The broth was of a bluish black in colour, and with a rather
strongly acid taste - both the result of the berries. But it agreed
with me very well, and I felt as strong and well as if I had
undergone no hardships during my journey from Baghdad.
I hoped soon to have had a similar dainty meal, but the Arab does
not live so extravagantly; I was obliged to remain satisfied with
bread and some cucumbers, without salt, oil, or vinegar.
26th June. We left the village and passed Kerku. At sunrise, we
ascended a small hill, from the summit of which I was astonished by
a beautiful prospect: a majestic lofty chain of mountains extended
along an enormous valley, and formed the boundary between Kurdistan
and Mesopotamia.
