Since that time I was more
cautious. One of the women here changed her begging manner into one
so threatening, that I was heartily glad at not being alone with
her.
We left this village at 4 in the afternoon. The pilgrim separated
from us, and the caravan then consisted of only five men. In about
an hour and a half we reached an eminence from which we obtained a
view of an extensive and well cultivated hill country. The land in
Kurdistan is without comparison better than in Mesopotamia, and the
country is consequently better inhabited; we were, therefore
continually passing through different villages.
Before nightfall we entered a valley which was distinguished for
fresh rice plantations, beautiful shrubs, and green reeds: a brisk
stream murmured at our side, the heat of the day was now succeeded
by the evening shadows, and, at this moment we had nothing to wish
for. This good fortune, however, did not last long; one of the
pedlars was suddenly taken so ill that we were obliged to stop. He
nearly fell off his mule, and remained motionless. We covered him
with rugs, but beyond that we could not do anything for him, as we
had neither medicines nor other remedies with us. Fortunately, he
fell asleep after a few hours, and we squatted down on the ground
and followed his example.
12th July. This morning our patient was well again; a doubly
fortunate circumstance, as we had to pass a terribly rocky and stony
road. We were obliged to scramble up and down the mountainous side
of a valley, as the valley itself was completely occupied by the
irregular course of the river Badin, which wound in a serpentine
direction from side to side. Pomegranates and oleanders grew in the
valley, wild vines twined themselves round the shrubs and trees, and
larches covered the slopes of the hills.
After a difficult and dangerous ride of six hours, we came to a ford
of the river Badin. Our raft turned out to be so small that it
would carry only two men, and very little baggage; and we were, in
consequence, four hours in crossing. We stayed for the night not
far from the ferry of Vakani.
13th July. The road still continued bad; we had to ascend an
immense pile of mountains. Far and wide, nothing was to be seen but
rock and stone, although, to my astonishment, I observed that in
many places the stones had been gathered on one side, and every
little spot of earth made use of. A few dwarf ash-trees stood here
and there. The whole has the character of the country near Trieste.
Although there were no villages on the road, there appeared to be
some near, for on many of the heights I observed large burial-
places, especially on those which are overshadowed by ash-trees.
