This little valley has an uncommonly romantic
situation; it is surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains, which
rise with a gentle slope on one side, and on the other are steep and
precipitous. The whole valley was covered with a rich vegetation;
the stubble-fields were interspersed with tobacco and rice
plantations, and meadows. Poplar-trees surrounded the village,
which was pleasantly situated at the foot of a hill, and a stream of
crystalline clearness rushed forcibly out of a mountain chasm, and
flowed calmly and still through this delightful valley. Towards
evening, numerous herds of cows, sheep, and goats came from the
mountain-slopes towards the village.
We encamped at some distance from the village; I could not procure
any relish for my dry bread, and had no other bed than the hard
ground of a stubble-field. Nevertheless I should include this
evening among the most agreeable; the scenery round compensated me
sufficiently for the want of every other enjoyment.
14th July. Ali allowed us to rest only half the night; at 2 o'clock
we were again mounted. A few hundred paces from our resting-place
was the entrance of a stupendous mountain-pass. The space between
the sides of the rocks afforded only sufficient room for the stream
and a narrow pathway. Fortunately the moon shone out brilliantly,
otherwise it would have been scarcely possible for the most
practised animal to ascend the narrow and extremely dangerous road
between the fallen masses of rock and rolling stones. Our hardy
animals scrambled like chamois along, over the edges of the steep
precipices, and carried us with safety past the terrible abyss, at
the bottom of which the stream leapt, with a frightful roaring, from
rock to rock. This night-scene was so terrible and impressive that
even my uncultivated companions were involuntarily silent - mute, and
noiseless, we went on our way, nothing breaking the death-like
stillness but the rattling steps of our animals.
We had proceeded about an hour in this way, when the moon was
suddenly obscured; thick clouds gathered round from all sides, and
the darkness soon became so great that we could scarcely see a few
steps before us. The foremost man continually struck fire, so as to
light up the path somewhat by the sparks. But this did not help us
much, the animals began to slip and stumble. We were compelled to
halt, and stood quiet and motionless, one behind the other, as if
suddenly changed to stone by magic. Life returned again with
daybreak, and we spurred our animals briskly forwards.
We were in an indescribably beautiful circle of mountains; at our
side lay high cliffs; before and behind, hills and mountains crowded
over each other, and in the far distance an enormous peak, covered
with snow, completed the romantic picture.
