I was told that on
very clear, fine days, a distant chain of mountains was perceivable -
the day was fine and clear, but I could not see the mountains.
The observatory is a very remarkable and artistic building. It was
built by Dscheising, under the intelligent Emperor Akbar, more than
two centuries since. There are no ordinary telescopes to be found
there: all the instruments are constructed of massive blocks of
stone. Upon a raised terrace, to which stone steps lead, stand
circular tables, semicircular and quadratic curves, etc. which are
covered with signs, writing, and lines. With these instruments, the
Brahmins made, and still make, their observations and calculations.
We met with several Brahmins busily engaged with calculations and
written treatises.
Benares is on the whole the chief seat of Indian learning. Among
the Brahmins, 6,000 in number, I was told there were many who give
instruction in astronomy, Sanscrit, and other scientific subjects.
The sacred apes are another of the curiosities of Benares. Their
principal location is upon some of the immense mango-trees in the
suburbs of Durgakund. The animals seemed as if they knew we had
come to see them, for they approached quite close to us; but when
the servant, whom I had sent for some food for them, returned, and
called them to him, it was amusing to see the merry creatures come
running from the trees, the roofs of the houses, and the streets.
We were in a moment closely surrounded by several hundreds, who
fought together in the most comical manner for the fruits and grain.
The largest or oldest acted as commander. Wherever there was
quarrelling, he rushed in, and commenced thrashing the combatants,
threatening them with his teeth, and making a muttering sound, upon
which they immediately separated. It was the largest and most
comical party of monkeys I ever saw. They were generally more than
two feet high, and their skins were a dirty yellow colour.
My kind host took me one day to Sarnath (five miles from Benares),
where there are some interesting ruins of three remarkably massive
towers. They are not particularly high, and stand upon three
artificially raised mounds, a mile distant from each other. Both
the mounds and towers are constructed of large bricks. The largest
of these towers is still covered in many places with stone slabs, on
which traces of arabesques are here and there visible. Numbers of
slabs lie scattered about the ground. There are no signs of any
such covering on the remaining towers. In each there is a small
door and a single apartment.
Excavations were commenced beneath these towers by the English
government in the hope of making some discoveries which would throw
light upon the origin of these buildings; but nothing was found
beyond an empty underground vault.
There is a lake close by of artificial construction, which is
supplied with water from the Ganges by a canal.
There is a very singular tradition connected with these towers and
the lake. "In very ancient times three brothers ruled here, who
were giants, and had these buildings erected and the lake excavated,
and all in one day. It must, however, be known that a day at that
time was equal to two years of modern reckoning. The giants were so
tall that they could go from one tower to the other with a step, and
the reason these were built so close was their fondness for each
other, and their desire to be always together."
An indigo plantation in the neighbourhood, the first I ever saw, was
not less interesting to me than these towers and their singular
tradition. The indigo plant is herbaceous, and from one to three
feet high, with delicate bluish-green leaves. The harvest is
generally in August; the plants are cut tolerably low on the
principal stem, tied together in bundles, and thrown into large
wooden vats. Planks are laid on the tops of the bundles weighted
with stones, and water poured on them; generally after sixteen
hours, though sometimes after several days, according to the
character of the water, fermentation commences. This is the
principal difficulty, and everything depends upon its continuance
for the proper time. When the water has acquired a dark-green
colour, it is transferred to other wooden vessels, lime added, and
the whole stirred with wooden spades until a blue deposit takes
place. After being allowed to settle, the water is poured off, and
the substance remaining behind is put into long linen bags through
which the moisture filters. As soon as the indigo is dry, it is
broken in pieces and packed.
Shortly before my departure I had the pleasure of being presented to
the Rajah through the aid of my fellow-traveller, Mr. Law. He
resides in the Citadel Rhamnughur, which lies on the left bank of
the Ganges, above the town.
A handsomely ornamented boat awaited us at the bank of the river,
and on the other side a palanquin. We soon found ourselves at the
entrance of the palace, the gateway of which is lofty and majestic.
I expected to have been gratified in the interior by the sight of
spacious courts and a handsome style of architecture, but found only
irregular courts and small unsymmetrical apartments, destitute of
all taste and luxury. In one of the courts was a plain-columned
hall on the level of the ground, which served as a reception-room.
This hall was overcrowded with glass lustres, lamps, and European
furniture; on the walls were some miserable pictures, framed and
glazed. Outside was a swarm of servants, who gazed at us with great
attention. Presently the prince made his appearance, accompanied by
his brother, and some courtiers and attendants, who could scarcely
be distinguished the one from the other.
